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Triple Rings

Has anyone tried to make a triple ring which consists of three
bands, usually 12 ga.half round each, that are intertwined (each
one attached to the others)? I have been having a problem sizing
this ring to a custom order. Its easy to make if you don’t need
a specific size. I don’t want to make 5 triple rings in 18K on
the chance that one will be right. Frances

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I’ve found from experience that each band should be about 1 1/2
sizes larger that the actual ring size, using fairly low dome
half round wire. My suggestion is to make a prototype in
sterling, and fine tune the client’s size from that piece.

Rick Hamilton
Richard D. Hamilton
Fabricated 14k, 18k, and platinum Jewelry
wax carving, modelmaking, jewelry photography

These rings were originally designed by Jean Cocteau in 1918 and
made for him by Cartier. You can figure out the sizing by first
cutting three pieces of wire using a ring gauge that shows the
length necessary to make a particular size ring. I would start
out by measuring for a size 10 ring. Bend the blanks around a
mandrel into circles, then link them together and solder the
ends. Make sure each band is round and then put the resulting
ring on a ring mandrel. Note what size the finished ring is,
from there you can figure out what the difference between start
and finished ring size is. For example, if you started with size
10 blanks and the finished ring may turn out to be size 7. For
that particular size of wire you need to cut the ring blanks
three sizes larger than the finished ring. Hope this is clear.

Steven Brixner - Jewelry Designer - San Diego CA USA

Hello Frances, Each individual band needs to be 2.5 sives larger
than the completed piece. Is that what you want to know?
Have a good day. Tom Arnold

Hi: To the best of my knowlege (having been there), the only thing
to do is to seperate them by cutting 2, sizing them seperately
(preferably by welding) and connect them again. Don’t even think
of stretching them while together! Hope this helps;


You’re sorta describing the Cartier ™ rolling ring here.
Yeah, they’re a trick to size. Take the diameter of the mandrel
at the size needed, and add to that the thickness of the stock
used for the band. Wherever on the mandrel is that new diameter
is the starting point for the individual bands before they’re
intertwined. I usually make em up, get the seam real tight, and
hook em all together, opening the rings like jump rings
(sideways) so you can close them up without a gap or getting them
again out of round. Then check the size before soldering all the
seams shut. If you need to adjust, you’ll then have a good idea
of how much to adjust the sizes. If, for example, you need an
overall size 10, and after this estimated procedure, the result
comes out at a 10 and a half, you know you’ll need to cut each
band down a half size before reassembling them. Getting the
rounded out, if the stock is heavy, is a bit tricky, since
often, two bands are thicker than the gap in a normal grooved
mandrel, so you can’t just sit two in the groove while you round
out the third on that mandrel. If the stock is thinner, then the
grooved mandrel works fine… And be careful polishing the
insides of the bands after assembly. Having a ring like that
snag on an inside polishing finger is not a pleasant experience,
for either the ring or the polisher.

Peter Rowe

Hi Frances, Make it 21/2 larger and make the rings round on a
groove mandrel. When you make one ring round the 2 other ones are
in the groove. If you need it larger just strech it on the
mandrel with a small steel hammer.
Vincent Guy Audette