Just get some silver wire and some soft solder and go at it!
In response to the above statement; DON’T do it!
Generally, in the jewelry trade, the term ‘"soft solder’ implies a
lead or non precious metal based solder. Mixing this type of solder
with sterling or fine silver isn’t reccomended. It can result in
pitting of the finished piece & definitley will result in problems
for anyone who tries to do any soldering on it in the future.
Solders for silver are available that melt at different temperations.
They’re generally called ‘Hard’ (hi temp), ‘Medium’ (medium temp),
‘Easy’ (low temp) & ‘Extra Easy’ (very low temp). They have melting
points of: 1490 F, 1265 F, 135 F & 1170 F. The flow points for each
of the solders is higher for each. Also be aware that the melting
temps may vary from mfg to mfg, but will be close to the numbers
Solders are generally available in sheet, wire & paste form. Paste
solder is usually sold in syringes with differnet size needles
available. The paste solder has a flux & liquid added to it. The
sheet & wire solder is generallry cut into small pieces called
paillions or chips for placement when soldering.
All the solders except paste solder require the joint to be soldered
to be painted with a flux before soldering. For most silver work. the
flux is usually borax (20 Mule Team) & water. The flux serves to
clean & keep oxygen away from the joint being soldered. Some fluxes
contain cadmium &/or flouride salts which have been known to cause
health problems if used excessively or in persons with certain
It’s also a good idea to coat the rest of the piece with a firescale
retardent. One of the more popular firescale retardents is Prip’s
Flux. It’s basically a combination of boric acid, borax, trisodium
phosphate & water. Another popular fire scale retardent is boric acid
dissolved in denatured alcohol.