This the procedure for any size of diamond or gem stone. The
following tools are needed; ring holder, 156C under-cutting burs,
round burs, brass pushing rod, flat ended pumice wheels (180 grit),
and flat graver #39. Secure the ring solidly into your ring clamp.
Eye-ball the size of the diamond to the hole that is drilled already
and obtains a round bur 80% the size of the stone. The remaining 20%
is what the metal should be securing the diamond with. Use a
under-cutting bur and proceed to make a seat for the girdle for the
stone, remember that the set diamond must be flush with the
surrounding metal once the stone is set. Under cut a seat all around
the hole, check now with a 10x loupe making sure that the seat is at
the same level. Do not over drill into the wall, you must only
insert the drill till you cannot see the rotating teeth any more. If
you are satisfied that the procedure is accomplished and to your
expectations ‘snap’ in the stone. Do not snap in, straight in, it
isn’t going to work this way. Place the stone in on an angle and
slide it in side to side. You will notice now that the diamond
appears to be lower than the surrounding metal, don’t worry. Now
proceed to use your brass pusher, as with the steel pusher it leave
deep marks in your gold. Push over the metal into 4 equal sections
round that stone. You should not compress but only push to tighten.
Once that the gold is evenly sitting on the gold, use a pumice wheel
to clean up all of the marks left by the push rod. Do not use a
tapered pumice wheel but only a flat ended wheel. Now for the final
stage of clean-up, you can now use a flat graver of #39 width. As
described in one of my previous notes, bright-cut around the inner
wall of the bezel till you achieve a nice uniform cutting action. It
is common to have many jewellers ask for assistance from setters.
Now with these notes on setting, I hope that you will find some form
of solace in the fact that many of the subjects have been covered in
Gerry, the Cyber-Setter
toll free cell phone 1-877-850-0003.