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The Art and Jewelry of J.Grahl Design


To Be "Engaged"
It’s a question to be asked…
Are we engaged in common views, a future designed together,a sense of being with each other no mater the time or distance.
Heck of a big commitment for most.
I’ve been fortunate to be part of that process for 53 years now, Each event, different but all with a common thread.
Each ring different, same common end goal.
This as unique as is the construction common to my roots,
Hand fabricated, platinum, 2 ct diamond , Pave’ side stones
A pretty extensive interview as to what they (or he) is looking for as a representation of the beginning of a new direction in life.


Is this an example of fishtail?


Hi Jim,

So funny! I was just thinking how I would prefer to not have accent stones around the center, if I had a large magnificent center stone…and then you posted two!



Betty, yes, the one above the last post is a version of fishtail (the one I learned so many years ago…
Thanks, Jim

Hi Julie.
I really am not a fan of “Halo” styles as such… but the client wins…
However, there are times when surrounding a diamond with other stones can be quite elegant…
It’s just hard to overcome the fact that darn near every engagement ring shown is “Halo’d”…
Thanks, Jim


Hi Jim,

I think all your pieces are wonderfully composed and elegant! and never just “halo’d!”

(I was just thinking that if I was ever fortunate enough to have a 4+ carat! center stone I would probably want it to stand alone…I think I would add accent stones if I was trying to create a big show with a smaller stone…?)

anyhoo…just a random thought, and then you posted two!



Color & Diamonds…
Diamonds are found in a rainbow of colors. From the buyer’s end, one is mostly exposed to white, and the whiter the better.
When a diamond shows one of it’s other colors vibrantly, like this 6 ct yellow, then the world turns an eye . The color must be intense to get your attention, and this Intense Fancy Yellow certainly does.
Created in 18K yellow gold and bordered with princess cut diamonds.


That’s a really tough setting job to do right. The whole thing, not just the center. Well done Jim.



Thanks Dave,
The kicker… is the “kick” in the pavilion.
so the “V” angle of the head has to be at a slightly tighter angle to the upper pavilion angle, and a small pocket is ground into the side panels and the kick in the lower pavilion centers there and keeps the stone from moving side to side.
The top bars on the center stone are actually separate panels that are soldered on.
Thanks, Jim


Nice work (as always). I rarely, if ever actually, channel set stones so I’m incredibly rusty at it. Did you set the side diamonds before soldering in the center head?


Thanks for elaborating, I wondered about whether you used a deep seat for the pavilion/culet to stabilize it laterally. I’ve done that too in a similar situation and it is a kicker. Cut and fit, cut and fit, cut and fit…

Curious also like Erich, did you set the squares and then add the center section or set them with the center in place? If the latter, what did you use to get the channel hammered down right next to the center or is that why the picture is only from the top?

Just kiddin’ around… :wink: .I consider the greatest compliment I can ever hear about my work to be “How the heck did he do that?”



Hi Eric and Dave…So
Side diamonds first with all the clean-up completely finished.
Then drop in the head structure (just a V’d piece of sheet, 16 ga.)
Now… the trick… I used Cadmium based solder… Can’t get it any more, (I can make it still, but what a pain).
Know it’s on the nasty list… but works without etching or bleeding into the ring structure.
I would weld pegs to the back of the head and weld the posts on the inside of the ring.
I am really open to solder suggestions, I haven’t found a good one since the cadmium left the room…
Thanks, Jim


Fascinating! Thanks for the description. Can’t say I know a whole lot about solders though as about 90% of my fabrication work is done via “fusing” (put that into quotations marks because there was quite a the metallurgical discussion around what was technically happening during granulation a few years back. I think the term James Binnion preferred was something like 'transient liquid phase diffusion bonding". . . what a mouthful. I’ll just stick to “fusing” for the sake of not confusing everyone). Anyhow, the long and short of it is that I just have a few solders I use to close jumprings, attach odd things here or there so I’ve never really looked into the pros and cons of various solder types beyond their melting points. Sorry I can’t be of any help there, but thanks again for the clarification!


Stuller still carries cadmium-bearing solder Jim. Couldn’t live without it. Cad-free is sorta like the new Macdonald’s French fries or fat-free ice cream.

Kids today just don’t have the same opportunities for fun that we did. Remember Jarts?



THANK YOU>>> David,
I’ll order some shortly.
Duh… I thought it just got regulated off the market,
I’ve ordered from 3 suppliers and got the same story…
Thanks again,


Roses are red…
In this case, Rosa’s new ring is in Rose
and platinum
and diamond.
Hand fabricated.
For a truly great friend and a trusting soul who said…
“I kinda like this style but do what you want”…
Well here’s to you Rosa for giving me the latitude to bring your vision to life.
All my best,


how to get hurt (or hurt others ) while laughing your head off… (Mind alteration required…batteries not needed)


A Bit of Bling…
Natural Black Diamond crystals, suspended from platinum hoops pave’ set with white and black diamonds.
Hand fabricated (the black diamond segments are removable)


To set those big black beauties, do you carve a partial channel in the crystals and/or drill and use prongs?

If you use prongs, are the bezels fitted mechanically or the prongs riveted in place?


Hi Betty,
The channel is cut into the metal, it captures the irregularities in the crystal to hold them in place, Then the metal is welded in place around the crystal.
Looks clean… not so easy.
Thanks, Jim


Diamond and Sapphire…
Sapphire and Diamond.
Hard to tell which get’s your attention first, the 3 + ct Diamond,
Or the intense ,Pink Sapphires.
Either way my friend was happy her husband stepped up and surprised her with this platinum piece.
(I was thrilled to be able to help with the surprise)