The Art and Jewelry of J.Grahl Design

Edward… revisited.
I wanted to explore another version of the ring I did earlier with the Padparaja and Demantoid garnets. I envisioned this a bit more conservative in color.
So here is Edward (Ian) 2, with an un heated 4.17 ct sapphire , hand fabricated platinum, accented with diamonds and fully dressed with azures inside.
I love the detail of this era, and an striving to do it justice.
Enjoy,
Jim

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Pearls… My passion.
While I love all gems, Pearls have long held a fascination ,they are of the water, come in a plethora of color and shape and they move with an animation depending on the light source.
The shots below are all of Cultured Tahitian Black Pearls. These are hand fabricated platinum and diamond pieces. These were done for a Pearl Grower in Tahiti as a demonstration of the beauty of his pearls. The designs are somewhat traditional, I like the counterpoint with the white (Akoya , Japanese cultured) Pearls.
Enjoy,
Jim
Photo, Sylvia Bissonnette

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Guy’s day again…
Men are an interesting challenge when it comes to designing jewelry.
They’re great collectors and connoisseurs of gems. But, as a general rule they are not exposed much to jewelry design of tailored and tasteful approaches.
I don’t pretend to know more than another about what’s “Right”. But, I have a certain vision of a clean, elegant approach to achieve a look.
I sort of kiddingly call these corporate boardroom rings. An item drawing attention to one’s taste and restraint, somewhat like wearing a Patek Philippe watch. A communication of sorts.
In this case, Burma ruby, baguette diamonds and 18K yellow with our proprietary “Stirrup” shaped shank.
Enjoy,
Jim

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Just Pretty…
This is a style I really enjoy doing, A beautiful, 4 ct natural ruby, a simple platinum frame, pave set with diamonds, and a wide 18K yellow gold band.
Don’t know what to call it, I just am drawn to the look.
Hand fabricated.
Enjoy,
Jim
Photo, Sylvia Bissonnette

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Deco again,
well, sort of,
This is a 50 ct amethyst, beautifully cut, and quite large , borderline for wearable jewelry,
The trick was to scale the South Sea white cultured pearls to 13mm.
This helps balance the look. The design was certainly Deco inspired. Hand fabricated in 18K yellow gold and platinum, accented with diamonds.
If you look closely at the lower left corner (about 7:00) you’ll see a catch.
The bale, (the component that attaches the pendant to the pearls or a chain), is removable and this piece can be worn as a pin as well.
Enjoy,
Jim
Sylvia Bissonnette photo

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The allure of blue…
Tanzanite does not seem uncommon, until you factor in it’s source,
one volcanic vein in one mountain in Tanzania.
There are vast quantities of low grade material that have been mined since it’s commercial unveiling in the early 1960’s (Tiffany and Co. gave the material is name). The parent mineral is Zoisite and is grey until heated. Under ideal conditions one gets a gem of the richest blue with a color shift toward purple (this is called dichroism).
VERY few show the classic color shift and beautiful shades of pinks, purples and reds on a background of the deepest blue.
This is one of these stones, sourced from a friend’s collection. A stone acquired in the early 60’s. An ideal stone.
My friend, Mark Lyons, has been commissioning pieces from me for nearly 40 years.
Mark gives me the freedom to approach each piece with the intent of the gem taking center stage.
In this case, a 16 ct Tanzanite in a contemporary , hand fabricated platinum pendant accented with diamonds.
More coming on the construction of this one.
Enjoy,
Jim

The allure of blue…
Tanzanite does not seem uncommon, until you factor in it’s source,
one volcanic vein in one mountain in Tanzania.
There are vast quantities of low grade material that have been mined since it’s commercial unveiling in the early 1960’s (Tiffany and Co. gave the material is name). The parent mineral is Zoisite and is grey until heated. Under ideal conditions one gets a gem of the richest blue with a color shift toward purple (this is called dichroism).
VERY few show the classic color shift and beautiful shades of pinks, purples and reds on a background of the deepest blue.
This is one of these stones, sourced from a friend’s collection. A stone acquired in the early 60’s. An ideal stone.
My friend, Mark Lyons, has been commissioning pieces from me for nearly 40 years.
Mark gives me the freedom to approach each piece with the intent of the gem taking center stage.
In this case, a 16 ct Tanzanite in a contemporary , hand fabricated platinum pendant accented with diamonds.
More coming on the construction of this one.
Enjoy,
Jim

For Eternity…
Or so it seems when I’m trying to do the math to figure one of these out.
This was a challenge, 5.25 carats of matched emerald cut diamonds, custom cut. all D-E color, VVs 1 & 2 clarity , and fitting a size 5 1/2 finger…
But in the end, a ring I really liked in a format rarely seen.
Enjoy,
Jim

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Something new, something blue…
Here is a very nice, 22 ct Ceylon Sapphire.
I do a lot of collaborative work with friends in the industry, this was a joint effort between Don Ross and Mark Maxwell.
Don has a great multi-generational business in Philadelphia ,
We’ve been friends and surf buddies for years.
Mark is one of the leading CAD designers in the business and all a great friend.
Don’s client wanted a piece that had scale and presence, but not flashy, she has a passion for gardening, thus the floral motifs.
Don and Mark generated a “Blank” for me to work from (an 18K white gold casting).
My job was to hand engrave, create flow and balance and do the setting work .
Sometimes it takes a village…
Enjoy,
Jim


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Art’s and Crafts style,
late 1900’s, early 20th century.
Add Rene’ Lalique (beads) and Natural Pearls.
Sometimes gems are a context, rather than a specific mineral. That is the case with the Lalique, Opalized glass beads.
These were a gift from a very aged friend before she passed. They were here “Treasures”, passed to me so I could come up with the piece she could never afford to imagine, let alone do. She was given these by her mother around 1900.
These are very rare, I’ve never seen a complete , undamaged set before.
And of course there are the pearls, Natural of origin with all the appropriate documentation., The sapphire beads are natural, un-heated as well.
This was my palate… what to create?
So my thoughts landed on the era that Lalique popularized, and a style that gently morphed into Art Noveau.
Created in 18K rose gold , oxidized to bring out the organic flavor, and accented with diamonds of the era in the centerpiece, as well as enamel details.
Wonderful photography in the first shot by Sylvia Bissonnette.
Enjoy
Jim

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A birthing gift, (“Push gift”)
Firstly,
Congratulates to Karlene and Mike Salguero for the birth of twin girls, Lucy and Ruby.
Mike ordered up a gift , and gave me a lot of space for it’s creation.
So out of the hat came “Toi et Moi”,
French (Tahitian) for me & You.
In the Polynesian culture it’s a symbol of relatedness to give a white and black pearl, hard to ignore this if twins are about to arrive.
First up, (highest pearl, the white one,) is Lucy, Moments later comes her sister. As are all twins, bound for life, for mon , a reminder of the partnership she and Mike have formed, for the girls, a commitment to live in to.
Hand fabricated platinum, South sea Cultured white and a very special Tahitian cultured blue-green pearl. All accented with diamonds and sapphires (birthstones for September).
Enjoy,
Jim

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We have our “Theme” moments…
This was a Southwestern event (there are several). it’s fun for me to explore cultural motif & styling, not necessarily replicating, but more capturing an interpretation.
Here are several pieces reflecting that sense,
The letter opener (in Steve Atherton’s collection) is a cast / fabricated and forged piece, 18K yellow gold, Stainless steel blade. An Idar Oberstien sourced Native American opal carving adorns the top, the handle is sheathed in snakeskin and the rattlesnake is the ferrule.
To it’s right is the close cousin as a pendant, less the snakeskin but adding a Mother of Pearl “Moon”, with diamond accents.
The Bolo is primarily sterling silver and the Gekko (Lizard if you’re in Arizona…) is holding one of the smaller coins from the 1622 Atocha shipwreck…
The Azurite Boot is 18K yellow gold, Platinum diamond and a spinning spur, the “Boot strap” raises to become a bale for a pendant if one prefers that over the boot’s pin configuration.
Whew…
Enjoy,
Jim

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Self expression…
It takes a certain sense of self to wear Jewelry that is bold, in this case, “Lisa” again one of my dearest friends, is capable of having fun (and being a bit shocking) with her jewels.
The emerald was her mothers, and a closer bond has yet to exist, the rest is a celebration of color using diamonds, sapphires, rubies and a lot of fabrication time in platinum.
And this iteration was created to celebrate her marriage to Barry, another extra special person.
Enjoy,
Jim



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For the guys…
We’re on the low end of the food chain when it comes to jewelry, so I’m always excited to do men’s pieces.
This suite, for a fine evening out (Tux NOT optional), is my cut on what I generally think of as a bland arena, “Formal” evening jewelry.
So ,presented here, are a very fine suite of Tahitian Black cultured Pearls… Cut in half… (oh my !).
The reason for the 1/2 pearls is to keep the profile of the pearl low, so it presents it’s self more like a cabochon gem. The other advantage is absolutely perfect color matching.
These pieces, a set of four studs, cufflinks and the ring were fabricated in 18K yellow gold and platinum, with diamond accents on the Man’s ring.
Enjoy,
Jim


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Alexandrite…
For my great friends, Jeff and Sara Webb.
Jeff called, asking for something very special for the wife who supports his rigorous lifestyle (he’s an astronaut in training).
Special and alexandrite are bound to get together…
Sara (also a new mom) had her preferences for color and styling. My job is to fill in the dots.
This alex is simply stunning, one of the finest I had the privilege of working with, as are this couple. My best thoughts go out to you, as amazing individuals with enormous vision and determination.
Enjoy,
Jim

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Another Alexandrite,
This for a very special couple, who wanted something unique for their wedding ring. This one for a captain of a aircraft carrier & his beloved, another Navy officer.
Alexandrite is a dichroic gem, meaning it will change colors under different light sources, in this case a beautiful green under daylight or fluorescent light, then shift to red under incandescent light.
It is SOOOO hard to capture in photography.
There is the ring, of course, hand fabricated in platinum with green sapphires bordering the alexandrite and diamond accents.

Enjoy,
Jim

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Yellow…
I don’t get to use it as much anymore, The trend is toward white metals, and for the most part I agree, white doesn’t tend to modify the stone colors as much as the reflections of yellow do.
However…
Here is a compilation of yellow pieces, The earrings & pendant are in 22k with a “Reticulated” surface near the pearls.
Platinum and diamond accents in all but the hoop earrings.
Beautiful Tahitian cultured Pearls in all.
All hand fabricated.
And, best of all, a stunning photo from Sylvia Bissonnette.
Enjoy,
Jim

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Bracelet…
Tanzanite (228 carats in total)…
Hand fabricated…
2000 + individual elements…
18K white gold…
Victorian / Edwardian wrought iron influence…
My friend with a big sense of herself, we’ll call her Madam-X from now on.
You saw her “Over the Top” ring below.
This is another example of a piece that takes a very special person to wear, let alone commission, knowing there was no precedent for me in this scale.
This is put together exactly as a wrought iron piece would be. Each piece forged, tapered at the ends, and, clamped in the appropriate manner.
The bracelet end cap design is modeled after a banister.
Each of the 28 Tanzanites range from 5 to 14 carats. Each sits in a fabricated head that is loose linked to the bracelet, allowing the tanzanite to be in independent motion to the cuff.
This piece is 3" (76.5 mm) tall, and is surprisingly light and sturdy.
Six months to build, six prior trying to figure out how to build it !
Enjoy,
Jim

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Over the top…
(to say the least)
Ostentatious… yup…
Visions of royalty… yup…
A (Very) big ring for a client with a very big personality, and a great sense of humor.
This is hand fabricated (i’m still sore) in platinum, 18k yellow gold, lots’a diamonds, pave’ set (everywhere), ruby Carre’ cuts (squares)
And a beautiful silver south sea pearl (cultured)…
and a TON of labor.
So the owner, one of my best friends in life and a true collector, was capable of wearing this piece, having it look in scale, and appropriate to her bearing.
A rare piece for a rare friend.
Enjoy (and smile)
Jim


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