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Tension setting?


#1

A warm hello from an appreciative lurker in need of advice,

I’ve been designing jewelry for quite some time now, primarily
carving models in wax–I am more of a sculptor than a bench jewelry
and thus don’t have as much bench knowledge as most of you out
there.

Basically, I am wondering if anyone knows of a good book, article,
or class on tension settings (or if someone could post a response,
that would be great too). I haven’t found any material on the
subject, and would greatly appreciate any help at all.

In particular, I’m hoping to design the setting in the wax. How do
I calculate the dimension with respect to the stone? Is it
absolutely necessary for the metal to have some spring to it (i.e.
titanium)? If so, is there some sort of gold hybrid with elasticity
that can be cast?

Thanks in advance,
a.d. wolf


#2

If you respect patents- you would have to find a way to cast the
ring and NOT heat-treat it for strength.

It is not really the metal that Steven K. patented but the heat
treating process for the purpose of spring tension setting the stone.
SK is patented and may not be the best possible mix for tension
setting anyway.

Daniel Ballard