First things first, I’m flagging you for a maritimer (Newfoundland, etc) because no one else in Canada say “eh”. If you’re not, please stop perpetuating the stereotype; the rest of Canada is over it because it makes us sound like a bunch of Screech drinking __________.
Lots of good advice here from the group. I use the Foredom TX and the Foredom hammer handpiece with a speed controller because I tend to get a little heavy footed on the “gas pedal” after a few minutes. The speed controller makes it feel more like a hammer and punch. I also use the hammer hand piece for texturing metal. Also, if you’re inclined, the anvils lend themselves well to customization. I shaped one so that it’s like a tiny curved burnisher, which I like for finishing. I hold it at an angle on the rim of the closed bezel and seal the deal. Works great.
Cheers from the West Coast.
The Swiss hammer handpiece arrived and I must say your advice sure came in handy!
I was nearly at completion of a rather complicated design bezel setting diamonds on a ring that has challenged me for some time.
After practicing on some silver and getting a feel for this new metal whacker , I used it first on a couple of stones that are basically gypsy set and the little hammer was a treat. I always shy away from white gold bezels because they are so darn hard to close using burnishers (my main way to set) however with a few light taps the stones tightened in place. Oh there were a couple of mishaps with diamonds jumping up and landing in unknown place. The 4th marquise stone looked fairly snug after burnishing down, so I began tapping with the handpiece and on the 2nd light smack it went missing. 2 hours later and an incredibly tidy bench the missing stone appeared and I continued.
Your suggestion of placing a finger alongside the anvil and holding the tool well back really is the ticket. Also using minimum speed is brilliant. As mentioned the way this works is quite different than how I had anticipated but your guidelines really helped… Thank you ever so much!
Will post a photo of this ring asap
Thanks again to all contributions to this thread … So appreciated!
Cheers and all the best
PS … I have the regular high speed Foredom and am able to hit the pedal light enough to click…click…click fairly slowly. When doing this with a tiny punch and hammer about the same speed.*
yay! i am glad it is working out
regarding stones jumping out, if possible, try holding the stone down with your fingernail (the non-hammer hand) for the first 2-3 hits to tighten it down.
also, if stones are jumping out, perhaps try to get a tighter fit when cutting the seat…ie: for faceted stones, use a hart bur, tilt the stone in, and click it in place…i am working on improving with this myself. having sets of round and hart burs helps when you need different sizes for different stones.
Yes indeed Julie … Thanks again for your help … 100% agree with all your suggestions. My big fingers that don’t function as well as they once did is also an issue. My bench is littered with an array of tiny burs and cutters … Sometimes I even match the right one to the job at hand :))
The piece turned out OK … not spectacular but decent. I also just used the hammer to tap down a bezel on one of my new crest rings. Normally I solder a crest to the top but have recently built a model with a bezel to set crests into place … They are angular so having a super well formed bezel edge is key!
Cheers and all the best