Surface holes & crust in Amber

Hi All,

I have quite a number of rough borneo amber pieces of different
colors, bought from a local wholesaler (Amberasia) and started to do
polishing myself. There are two things i noticed after sanding and
to final polishing.

  1. small surface holes from less than 0.5mm to larger ones 3.0mm and
    depth 0.5mm to 1.0mm. I believe these are air bubbles lies trapped
    in the amber and becomes surface holes when i sand opened it. What’s
    the best way to treat or cover up the surface holes.

  2. new fine crust swirl will appear after two to three days after
    final polishing. I do some searching for answer on the internet and
    concluded that when water in the amber evaporates, crust will
    appear. This occurance only happens to my brown and cognac with swirl
    amber and not to other colors - cognac, green, white etc. Tried
    applying by dipping the whole polished amber piece into water-based
    varnish or lacquer to stop the water from evaporating and still after
    one week, the same thing happened.

Will be happy to forward pictures of the amber to helpful members
for review and feedback. Any help or advice is much appreciated.

Thanking in advance.

James
@BT_Teoh

Hello, I have never heard of Amber from Borneo, is it new or am I
just behind? This stuff sounds more like what some people call Copal
Amber, which is only about 10,000 year old tree sap. It is very
flimsy stuff. I am very interested to see where this thread goes.

Good luck Dennis

Hi James!

Here’s a trick commonly used by specimen collectors and museum
restoration folks:

Using thread or light fishing line, figure out a way to suspend the
piece of amber from the string/line. Sometimes, a fish hook with the
tip inside a bead hole is a good choice.

Suspend the piece from the top of any closable container, like a
shoe box. I like to use a small mason jar. I punch a small hole in
the flat lid, pass the thread through it and tie the thread to a
pencil. Let the amber hang in space. Then place a small container
(jar cap, etc.) inside the larger container. I just use the jar
itself, but pour some ethyl alcohol or isopropyl alcohol in the
smaller container or jar. Don’t use denatured alcohol. Most rubbing
alcohol works fine. Close the container and place it in a warm room
overnight.

The alcohol will dissolve the surface of the amber, fill small pits,
and leave a perfectly smooth surface that appears polished. When you
remove the piece, it’s still tacky, so don’t touch it. Just hang it
somewhere for a half-hour to an hour and it will be dry and shiny.
Pits gone!

Best regards,
Wayne Emery
The Gemcutter

Wayne,

What a neat idea…I’ve never tried that one. Good tip.

Cheers from Don at The Charles Belle Studio in SOFL where simple
elegance IS fine jewelry! @coralnut2

Hi Wayne,

Thanks a lot for method and its now coming to 11.50pm and will try
it tomorrow and let you know testing status one or two days time. Any
helpful ways or methods with regards to below question?

  1. new fine crust swirl will appear after two to three days after
    final polishing. I do some searching for answer on the internet and
    concluded that when water in the amber evaporates, crust will appear.
    This occurance only happens to my brown and cognac with swirl amber
    and not to other colors - cognac, green, white etc. Tried applying by
    dipping the whole polished amber piece into water-based varnish or
    lacquer to stop the water from evaporating and still after one week,
    the same thing happened.

Thanks in advace.

James
@BT_Teoh

Hi James,

I’ve not experienced that with amber, but have with copal. Both are
resins, of course, and I would imagine that there are all types of
oranic volatiles that coud leach out and evaporate, leaving the crust
you describe. Sorry I can’t offer a solution…

Wayne