In the October issue of JCK I saw a photo of a bracelet using
Tahitian pearls & “stipple finished 18k links”. I’ve seen this
texture before, & love the look-can someone explain to me how it’s
achieved? I’m intrigued specifically by the texture applied to wire.
Thanks to all for this incredible resource, Daphne Kittery,
Maine-where, after truly beautiful foliage, the trees are getting
naked…
ok, probably this isn’t the "right " way, but it works for me.
actually I have two ways I use (resourceful me) though both involve
handpeices. The nicer of “stippling” texture that I use is done with a
hammer handpeice (also great for doing bexels ) and get a tip that
has a point and start hammering… the alternate “stippling” texture
I use is with a regular handpeice and a broken bur that has been
sharpened to a point…this is a little more difficult and takes more
control, but it is great for small aeas… Stippling is great to use
in those "etruscan " style pieces with a bezeled stone with
stippleing around the edges (and the stippling hides the solder seam
well…) good luck… -julia
Hi Daphne, I’m not sure if it’s the same texture, but I get a
wonderful, sparkly texture using an inverted diamond in the end of a
punch. It takes some time to do larger areas, but the result is well
worth the time. Curtis
While creating a ‘stippled’ texture is much easier with a hammer hand
piece this texture can be done by hand. Secure the item (ring) to the
bench. for a ring a ring mandrel works nicely for other items an
engraving ball or a pitch bowel works. Then while holding a pointed
punch loosely above the area to be textured gently and rapidly hammer
the punch while moving it in small overlapping circles covering the
area to be textured. It really is not as difficult as it sounds, and
the depth of the texture can be controlled by the amount of force
applied with the hammer.
This is why it is called Gold/Silver Smithing (from the use of a
hammer)
Wayne
Hi Curtis Can you explain in more detail your stipple procedure with
that inverted diamond Jonathan
Curtis hello!
Noticed your post on stippling. The diamond tipped ones are quite
good. Equally good and a bit more versatile is a homemade tip. Just
take a worn out vanadium bur (better steels too)! and sharpen the tip
with three flat planes at roughly 45 degrees to the shank. Experiment
with the angle. A more obtuse angle is easier to control by not going
as deep.
To sharpen the tip accurately requires patience, and use your visor.
I use my can opener motor with a 600 grit diamond lap. I then polish
by hand on a ruby stone. If you have a crocker graver sharpener or
the like, this may be an opportunity to use it. Whatever steel you
use, you should then temper it, carefully!
This type of tip will put a more refined stipple finish than a cone
shaped tip. It is worth the extra trouble. If you can chuck it up for
power use, all the better. You can shade and change angles to get
different effects. If you do animals or the like you already know
shading technique. Try a three faced tip; much superior. My two
cents!
Tim
It’s really quite simple, the inverted diamond is bezel set in a
punch. It’s tapped, lightly, while holding the piece with something,
such as a mandrel or vise. After some practice, you get a rhythm
going. Curtis
By the way, a similar texture can be created on sheet with a rolling
mill and coarse sand paper. Put the paper next to your annealed metal
and a sheet of some other metal on the other side of the sand paper to
protect your rollers and send it through. Mary
Hi everybody:
that subject on stipple texture was very interesting , I realy like
this finish in gold and silver , but I have a question , I’ve been
using my hammer handpiece with the lazer point from Gesswein, but I
have not achieved the stipple finish I like. I have seen some
beautiful stipple finish on dolphin rings with rhodium plating, that
give the appearance as it were paved with diamonds all over. The
stipple finish was so deep that it looked as it had been done with a
big giant diamond (well, considering the size of the diamonds and
roughness of the stipple finish) I can tell it was at least 3 times
bigger than a regular lazer point. This is something that I’ve been
trying to find out for almost ten years ago. Any advice would be
appreciated. Jonathan.