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Spraying pripps via air compressor


Hi again!

I’ve had no luck whatever finding a hand-held pump spray that
atomizes around here.

However, what I DO have is a 100 psi air compressor and a spray paint
kit to connect to the compressor, gifts from my father-in-law.

I’m strongly considering pressing that into service. Definitely
overkill but it would be an engineer’s solution.

Is Pripps supposed to be thick and may therefore clog pnumatic spray
paint gear? If not, will the paint kit atomize the Pripps well
enough to be useful?

Andrew Jonathan Fine

I'm strongly considering pressing that into service. Definitely
overkill but it would be an engineer's solution. 

Don’t think like an engineer, think like a jeweler. How cheaply and
easily can I get this done?

How can I do this so that I’m not spreading Prip’s all over the
studio, over all my tools with a crazy compressor!

Buy the atomizer online or just use regular old flux.



Or ask any friends with allergies if they use Nasacort or a similar
nasal spray. Convince them to give you an empty container. Rinse the
container out, fill with Prips and you are good to go.



most chemists/drug stores sell hand held pump sprayers for less than
2 dollars- plastic spray bottles with a central filler tube that has
a fitting on the bottom of the tubing with a bunch of small holes on
some models- those are best if using your own homemade “Pripp’s
Style” flux as they allow for a small degree more flow- the real
trick is to get a creamy ( like thick cream) consistency to your
mixture- not pasty, not so thick it doesn’t rapidly mix when stirred-
it’s difficult to word-… Far easier to use Cupronil- ( of which I
have no affiliation) made by 4S labs- It does the exact same thing as
Pripps- will build a more even coat on a workpiece than a homemade
mixture and comes completely liquified though has essentially the
same ingredients, but in their hydrated forms so one doesn’t have to
deal with alcohol evaporating from, say a mason jar lid that even
though having a latex like coating to make a gasket on the edge where
it contacts with the glass that it is intended for and is ( now)
enameled on the inside ( old lids had no enamel coating and were
exposed metal) the enamel breaks down in a matter of months from
alcohol fumes- it doesn’t have to be in constant contact with the lid
to break down.

Many people often wonder where iron or other metals contamination
comes from on their work: Acting like an attack of ferrous/ferric
compounds particularly on silvers- it is often from solvent
containing studio preparations stored in glass jars…The last place
one would think to look, after realising the crockery pot that holds
pickle can also break down releasing iron from the stoneware has been
ruled out. More common and less obvious are the metal oxides from jar
lids getting directly into the flux mix, or whatever was in the
storage jar…so Cupronil having a boracic acid, boric acid base will
build a nice " skin" of firescale protectant by just warming the
piece and applying in as many layers as you deem necessary to protect
it from scale, staining, etc.while acting as a flux in the same way
Pripp’s type compounds work…I have used homemade preparations and
tried just about every flux available but find Cupronil the best for
silver jewelry making beating out Firescoff ( of which I have many
problems with from the formulation, or rather reformulation,
ridiculous price, to application consistency, etc.) by a long shot.

If you do go for an airbrush set up be sure to put a moisture filter
in line to protect your equipment. A company called "micro-mark"
sells a wide variety of them for all types of small airbrush systems
( as well as many airbush sytems, applicators, etc.) and other tools
great for jewelry making if a bit pricey, but hard-to-find. You
should be able to run your own homemade Pripp’s through a system if
you make it thinner than you would ordinarily mix up. Harbor freight
has a very inexpensive set up that could be dedicated to strictly
applying flux for under twenty dollars- just make sure to run some
water through the line and handpiece at a good pressure after
cleaning as usual and dry well before storage to make it last for
years of service…rer


Coming in a little late on this, but I have been using Prips
(home-made and commercial) with regular pump spray bottles that you
can get at any hobby store. I have also used/recycled pump sprays
from hair gels, and other sorts of personal care products. The
springs in these don’t last forever, so eventually they end up in the
recycle bin, and I find another one. The tips may tend to clog with
either preparation of Prips, just soak it in a little warm water, or
a dip in the sonic will work. I find that Prips is best sprayed on in
short quick bursts when the metal is warm for an even coat that is
not overly thick. Look for brown (at least on silver), then glassy
like regular boric acid wash when soldering. I’m with Elaine on this,
you don’t want the stuff sprayed all over your solder and work areas!

Have fun,
Melissa Veres, engraver