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Spectacle setting


#1

How do I set stones using this technique but without using a screw
(I want aclean bezel strip, and both sides of the stone to be
identical) the edges of the stone come to a soft point/angle) thanks


#2

Hi

it is a few years since I have done spectacle setting, so I
apologize in advance if I miss any steps.

I used this for faceted stones in earrings.

Cut a strip of metal slightly longer than the circumference of the
stone + 5mm

The width of the strip should be girdle width plus standard bezel
width x 2 (you have a front and back)

Taper end (the 5mm bit) to fit through round draw plate

Use a metal rod thinner than strip, lay on taper and tap to give a
slight curve, or if you have pliers that curve strips use them.

Pull through round draw plate to curve the strip till it fits the
girdle of the stone.

Wrap round the stone with an overlap. Scribe and remove stone.

Cut through overlap. This should fit exactly round the stone.

Solder an open jump ring onto gap in the strip.

Place stone in setting and use round nose pliers (place next to
strip either side of the jump ring)

Squeeze pliers to close jump ring and hence the bezel strip.

I lack maths skill so I had to use trial and error when doing this
for each size of stone.

I guess this is just the basic principles and no doubt others will
be able to correct or add to this post.

This is a very common setting for Indian (Asian) jewellery so have a
look at some of this.

I actually repaired a pair of 18 kt spectacles where the screw
fitting had broken off the spectacle setting.

Took both lenses out and soldered the screw fitting on polished etc.

My friend had been told by every optometrist he went to this was not
possible.

He was amazed how quick and simple it was to repair.

Guess the profit in optometry is in selling frames.

I charged him a six pack (term for beer in Australian bush).

Richard


#3

Got a good laugh at Richard’s story of repairing a pair of 18kt
spectacles. Right now, my glasses have been broken twice on one side,
so it’s been soldered twice. Then the nose pad broke off, so I have a
piece of brown sculpting wax in it’s place, so that my nose isn’t
sore from the sharp edge. I don’t want to replace my glasses till I
get a new prescriptioin. My close-up vision is shot to hell, and if
you are wearing Optivisors to read, you are in trouble. I’ve repaired
so many of my glasses in the past decade and half. Even my
optometrist is amazed that I can fix my glasses. However, the glasses
I got from Lencrafters years ago are not fixable by soldering.

Joy with her much-patched up glasses


#4

Richards reply was really good and very interesting, I have never
heard his method described quite that way and will remember it. I
have anothermethod, but it is only useful with stones that can take
the heat of a torch. Although Richard could use this method and then
add a loop at the seam. Typically I will use this technique if
making something like “diamonds by the yard”. So it may not be what
you need, but it might be a technique to file away for future use.

If I need a wire bezel, that just hugs the girdle, leaving the crown
and pavilion fully visible, this is how I do it.

I take a round wire, usually 20-18 gauge depending on the stone
size, anneal the last 2-3 inches of one end and hold the wire in my
parallelpliers so the wire is parallel to the flat end of the
pliers. Then I take a 90 degree hart bur (or a 70 degree if that
better matches the stones angles) and cut a groove down the length
of the wire, a long enough groove to complete the bezel plus 6mm or
so. Note that you need to be careful not to spiral around the wire
when you cut, but keep the groove straight. I try to cut a little
more than half way through the wire. Then you coil the wire like you
would a jump ring so it fits tightly around the stones girdle. When
you’re happy with the fit, you cut your loop, straighten the ends do
it’s aflat loop and click your stone into the bezels groove. If it’s
loose you need to cut a little more out. Then click it back in and
if it’s tight you can solder it shut. That’s all there is to it.

The mistakes are usually the bezel is wavy from the side view,
rather than flat, the stone is loose, the loop wasn’t coiled with
the groove perfectly to the inside, the groove wasn’t deep enough.
If you can avoid those problems it works like a charm.

Mark


#5

Hi

We’re back in the Orchid land I like. I post a method on spectacle
setting and Mark posts another.

Now the original poster has 2 ways to skin his cat.

Way far cool!
Richard