it is a few years since I have done spectacle setting, so I
apologize in advance if I miss any steps.
I used this for faceted stones in earrings.
Cut a strip of metal slightly longer than the circumference of the
stone + 5mm
The width of the strip should be girdle width plus standard bezel
width x 2 (you have a front and back)
Taper end (the 5mm bit) to fit through round draw plate
Use a metal rod thinner than strip, lay on taper and tap to give a
slight curve, or if you have pliers that curve strips use them.
Pull through round draw plate to curve the strip till it fits the
girdle of the stone.
Wrap round the stone with an overlap. Scribe and remove stone.
Cut through overlap. This should fit exactly round the stone.
Solder an open jump ring onto gap in the strip.
Place stone in setting and use round nose pliers (place next to
strip either side of the jump ring)
Squeeze pliers to close jump ring and hence the bezel strip.
I lack maths skill so I had to use trial and error when doing this
for each size of stone.
I guess this is just the basic principles and no doubt others will
be able to correct or add to this post.
This is a very common setting for Indian (Asian) jewellery so have a
look at some of this.
I actually repaired a pair of 18 kt spectacles where the screw
fitting had broken off the spectacle setting.
Took both lenses out and soldered the screw fitting on polished etc.
My friend had been told by every optometrist he went to this was not
He was amazed how quick and simple it was to repair.
Guess the profit in optometry is in selling frames.
I charged him a six pack (term for beer in Australian bush).