I bought roach pruf boric acid from the hardware store but was afraid
to use it because of the 1% inert. I now know that I am safe in using
it. I had already bought boric acid from the pharmacy and mixed it
with denatured alcohol. My problem is: how do I know when I have the
right consistency? I was told to mix the boric acid with the alcohol
until it quit dissolving. I did that but my mixture seems too thick.
I don’t know the proportions I used (I love experiments, don’t you?).
I have it in a mason jar and keep the lid on the jar when not in use,
but it seems that the mixture gets dryer every day. Can someone give
me some idea as to how thick or thin this should be? Is there a
formula I can use?
I use an old apothecary jar. When the jar gets encrusted and the lid
is stuck on, I smack it once or twice with the back end of a
self-locking tweezer.
Here’s how I make my solution: I fill the jar most of the way up
with denatured alcohol, then sprinkle boric acid into it until it
stops dissolving (more or less) then I let it settle and only use the
stuff off the top. I use a cheap model paintbrush with an aluminum
crimp to hold the bristles and when the brush gets all stiff & white
I drop it into my pickle until it’s clean again. Rinse.
Yep, that’s what I’d do - go out and pay the high price for the pure
stuff. But remember, never use it to cool off that dirty ring you
just soldered, or that nasty chain or bracelet link you just got
hot, or quench something so you can take a quick look at it and keep
on working. And make sure everything is sterile spotless before
dipping in the solution. There’s no telling what may blow off, fall
off, get rinsed off, etc. into your “pure” solution.
Ever taken a look at the sediments in your boric/alcohol container
after a few years of using it? After 20+ years of continuous use and
never changing, only replenishing, the bottom of my container has a
couple grams of metal filings, some black stuff I can’t and don’t
care to identify, even a few fleas I sent on their way to
Never-Never Land years ago. So what if there’s a tiny amount of air
milled diatomaceous earth in it. It sinks the same as just about
everything else that finds its way into the jar.
Yep, I’d really hate for some of that inert stuff listed on the
bottle to find its way into my jar.
In other words, quit sweating the small stuff and get on with what
matters. On your journey of life in this business you’ll find that
life in the jewelry shop isn’t the cleanest and or safest way to make
a living. But it sure can be rewarding. And, with common sense and
proper amount of caution, you’ll find you’ve developed your own
methods of getting around obstacles, saving a few shop supplies
dollars by reading ingredient lables, and figuring out your own
shortcuts to get the job done. Don’t be afraid to "push the envelope"
a bit. Just make certain it’s a cheap enough “envelope”,
though. Experience is the only way to tell just how far to push.
I’ve been following the thread about the boric acid; even submitted
a question. What I know now is that I can use the Roach Pruf Boric
Acid, I should not use isopropol alcohol (or Everclear either), I
should not waste my money on the “pure” stuff from the drug store,
but I still don’t know what proportions of boric acid to alcohol. So
this is what I have decided: I’ll sprinkle the roach pruf on the
floor of my studio and drink the Everclear. I still won’t have a
borax based flux, but I probably won’t care for now!!
I still don't know what proportions of boric acid to alcohol.
My my my!
Actually, I did answer this before-- more than once over the years,
and once recently.
There is no fixed proportion. Dump some boric acid in a lidded
container-- say, a couple of tablespoons per cup of volume-- and
fill it up with alcohol. Stir it or swirl it every time you use it,
dip the workpiece down to the bottom and swish it around. Most of
the boric acid won’t dissolve, and will settle back to the bottom,
but that’s OK.
Keep adding alcohol as it evaporates off. When the layer of boric on
the bottom gets a bit thin, add some more.
Boric acid from the pharmacy (usually in the eye wash department or
you ask them to order it for you) is only about $7-* dollars for a
12oz? bottle/jar of fine crystals. It is not reagent grade (that IS
expensive) but it is just boric acid. Use alcohol (Paint department
at any hardware store) and mix in enough to have some paste in the
bottom of the container and liquid on the surface (if you area going
to use just the liquid part). We use the finer paste and dip or paint
it on the piece before heating and it works great.
Use the Everclear for internal parasite removal or cherries or
bananas flambe’, much better use for that EXPENSIVE product. As far
as the roaches, it does depend on what type of “roach” one is
referring to as to whether the “Roach Proof” will have any effect on
them/it. I don’t know about the effects of mixing a shot of Everclear
with a “Roach” but that could get interesting I suppose. Personally,
I never inhaled!!
but I still don't know what proportions of boric acid to alcohol.
So this is what I have decided: I'll sprinkle the roach pruf on the
floor of my studio and drink the Everclear. I still won't have a
borax based flux, but I probably won't care for now!!
There really is no special measurement. You keep adding the boric
acid to the alcohol until it quits dissolving. Just give the
container a stir or shake before using.