Depends what kind of solder you are using. Who is the manufacturer?
Couple of ideas.
- the bottom of the bezel, should be very, very flat, even if it is
a curved piece and more so. Straight bezel stock from your
manufacturer is not flat enough. If you can sand it with say, 220
grit to WIDEN the profile of your contact, this will help. Don’t rub
back and forth. Be mindful and aggressive with your material. One
long stroke, of say at least 6 inches.
Do it with just a little piece and look at it under a loupe. You
will see the bezel widen out, almost like a flange. That extra bit
means EVERYTHING when you solder.
if you are seeing the solder sort of “mushy” or look grainy, I
would choose another manufacturer. My favorite solders is Hoover and
when you say “heavy” what does this mean? Sheet, cast piece?
For awhile I was soldering silver bezels to copper for some
production brooches which were a bear to connect. They required test
after test to create a system which I could do it without thinking.
One way that helped me, was to finally hold the piece in my tweezers
and heat from underneath. Not on a trivet, cause you are heating up
the steel mesh too, but watching the flame carefully.
These are just the times when you take off your artist hat and don
your lab coat.