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Soldering on a border around a bezel


#1

I want to add an outer border to a ring bezel and would appreciate any tips- thanks!

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#2

Hi,

ok, sounds like you will need to add additional metal around the outside of the bezel.

I would suggest using a square or round wire to create a second bezel around the outside of the stone bezel. It will need to be low enough in height so that you will still be able to access the lip of the stone bezel to push it over when setting the stone.

on this second bezel, you can use stamping tools to make decorative impressions, or use a file to file grooves and patterns, use a graver to engrave patterns…around the top of the bezel…

also, you can file the bezel so that it is crenellated like the top of a castle, or scalloped, or with an irregular top edge…whatever design you think will add to your design…

if you are using thin bezel wire for the stone bezel, I would probably solder the thicker outside bezel down first…or, both bezels together…if you have already soldered the thin bezel on first, then step down to a lower melting solder, and heat the larger pieces first and let the heat transfer to the larger of the two bezels, keeping away from the edge of the thin bezel…

hope this helps

Julie


#3

Yes it makes sense, thank you, Julie!
As you may have guessed, i’ve already soldered on the thin stone bezel. I’ll try easy solder on the second since i used hard on the bezel and medium for attaching it to the plate. And if the stone bezel melts, i’ll let loose with a few choice words first, then start over. After all, i’m learning.
Do you by chance talk to the solder as it heats? Nice solder, that’s a good solder, and so forth!
Thank you again!


#4

Hi!

You can usually use the same solder type for a few joins. I dont know how to explain it technically, but basically after the solder flows, it’s future melting point is raised by the newly created alloy.

You may want to try medium solder.

heat the larger pieces, and let them heat the second bezel wire. Keep the heat on the outside or under, and not directed near the first thinner bezel.

you may be interested in subscribing to Andrew Berry’s Online Streaming Video Jewelry Training, called “AtTheBench”.

I think it is very reasonably priced, and a great investment for learning to make jewelry.

I find it helpful for learning to solder many different applications. It could be said to be somewhat repetitive, but in fact I think sometimes that is needed to get something to stick in the brain and become second nature.

…Sometimes you are studying one thing, and do not “hear” the other stuff…the repetition really helps to catch everything eventually…if that makes sense.

Julie


#5

When you say heat the larger pieces, and let them heat the second bezel wire, what do you mean by the ‘larger pieces?’

I agree about repetition, it’s amazing how one can hear the same thing over and over and then one day, it’s as if one is hearing for the first time!


#6

Hi Julie,

I took your advice and signed up for At The Bench. I’ve encountered his videos before, and feel confident that my technique will greatly improve from the tutorials.

In the fall of 2016 I took 2 “Metal Jewelry Making’ courses at a local community college. I was all gung ho afterwards, even made an investment with Rio to get a basic set up. But then, I started having health issues that resulted in a diagnosis of Stage 1 lung cancer in both lungs. That put a halt to everything, and I’ve only just begun getting restarted with metal work. I LOVE beautiful stones, turquoise especially, and have quite an inventory of cabs and beads. I started back with basic beading for which i made all the findings save for cones. I’m retired now and need to sell work so that I can invest in more stones, etc. Kept trying to open up an Etsy shop, but felt my work is insufficient as it was mostly just beading (except for findings). Finally took the plunge and opened it up the other week; meanwhile, I’ve been working on setting a pair of Azurite earrings- hence my post on Ganoskin. I also worry that my prices are too high for beaded items even tho the only base metal I use is copper, and very little of that. Plus, as you know, good turquoise is expensive.

So that’s my story to date. Can’t tell you how much I appreciate your help!

katie


#7

Hi Katie,

I also took Jewelry making classes at a community college. It was a great experience.

I hope you enjoy and are inspired by “At The Bench”. There are quite a few videos on there that show the soldering techniques you are interested in.

I wish you good health and happy jewelry making. Be safe, learn about safety for each of the techniques tools, materials, etc that you work with.

Julie