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Soldering jump rings

G’day; I have just read the note from Michael Sturlin, and agree
with his suggestion of using a thin carbon rod (shaved back pencil)
as a solder pick. I would like to suggest that one can buy such
carbon ‘leads’ about 2mm diameter and about 130mm long from any
really good drafting office or art materials supplier without the
wooden ‘overcoat.’ You can also buy a clutch holder to make easier
to hold the rods. The carbon rods work exactly as he suggests, and of
course the solder cannot fasten permanently to them. However, they
are very fragile indeed and will not stand much pressure.

I prefer and have used a piece of 2mm titanium wire fitted into a
piece of wooden dowel for many years, and the solder won’t stick
permanently to that either. One more trick though; dip the very tip
of the pick into flux slurry, shake off excess, and this will make it
easier to lift the tiny solder paillon (snippet) on the pick. Heat
it carefully so as to avoid it blowing off, then apply the tiny
sphere to the job. I couldn’t buy Ti wire in NZ, so at a flea market
stall, bought a pair of spiral Ti wire earrings (at an inflated cost
but worth it) and straightened them out.

To hold jump rings and other small items when soldering I use a pair
of cheap locking tweezers with the business ends filed to narrow,
blunt points. The opposite end of the locking tweezers has a hole
drilled in it and a self tapping screw holds it firmly to a small tin
lid filled with lead, which allows it to be used anywhere on the
bench as a third hand. Wouldn’t be without it. – Cheers for now, John
Burgess; @John_Burgess2 of Mapua Nelson NZ

For titanium solder picks get some Ti racing wheel spokes from a
good cycle shop.

Neil KilBane