How do you hold and solder broken eyeglasses? I don't have a
laser. I use a propane/oxygen little torch with easy silver solder
and handy flux dark paste (for steel).
I assume the frame is made of a nickel alloy and so the solder they
used is probably of lower temp than your easy. I would suspect they
used Easiflo as the optical parts supplier near me sells it as
optical solder. Operating temp 610C-635C (approx). Possibly all you
can do is get some easyflo siliver brazing rod from a plumbers
supplier, hamme/roll out an end of the rod and cut snips, put
heat-shield on the other joints and do the repair quickly.
I’d also add, steel black flux operates at too high a temp. Use a
flux that suits the temperature of the solder (rather than the
apparent metal being soldered). While at the plumbers get some
easiflo flux. In fact I use easiflo powder flux (as powder) on all my
gold and silver soldering jobs and find it to be just wonderful. Work
with a small fan blowing across the workbench.
... The break is usually on the lens loop right next to the bar
that holds the two lens loops together. When I get my solder hot
enough to flow, I immediately unsolder the part next to it (the bar
connected to the circle). I don't like to work on them but I am the
only guy in town who does in-store jewelry repair work. All the
optometrists in our county send their desperate customers to me.
An unenviable job, but if you can crack it you’ll get more of such
As for holding the frame as you work on it, first you need to
support the whole frame. I’ve learned to rig up a piece of st/steel
mesh (4 per in) in such a way as it follows the curve of the frame,
lean it on such an angle in the soldering bay that you can access the
joint well, and stick the frame on the mesh with lumps of soft clay.
two or three chunks, to hold the frame onto the mesh. The clay also
acts as a heat shield, so don’t put it close to the joint you’re