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Soldering Block

I think that I have tried just about every soldering block there is. They all seem to get pitted and fall apart fairly quickly. I level them on a piece of patio block once in a while, but they eventually get thin and break. I have tried refractory bricks, but they suck up heat. I am looking at the ceramic blocks that Rio sells for platinum and am wondering if there is any reason why I can’t use them for silver. The Rio item is 502090. Please let me know if you have any experience with these blocks. Thanks…Rob

Rob,
The soldering block from RIO looks like it might work for you, but you might consider a different approach to your soldering. I was taught to hold almost everything with tweezers, so that you can better control the heat and access to what you are soldering. The soldering block was mainly a staging place to put different solders, and for adjusting heads, putting posts on earrings, etc… A soldering block could last years. This kinda shows what I’m meaning: https://photos.app.goo.gl/8F8GiznLbP4NVSVC8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/LeJqXX7HMvuttSrV7

Not knowing, but I’m guessing that you must do all your soldering on top the block rather than with tweezers. This will cause the block to ware out much quicker, it’s harder to control the heat, and have the access to what you are soldering. A soldering block reflects and absorbs heat. When you use tweezers to hold the piece you are working on, you can better control the results.

Tjones
Goldsmith

Some of my work

I do use a pair of tweezers or other jigs as much as possible, but some of my heavy bracelet designs require that I work on a soldering block. I was finally able to get a hold of a tech at Rio and they said that the platinum soldering block will work fine with silver. Thanks…Rob

the ones Ive had the best luck with are the hard charcoal blocks. the whites ones are a disappointment stuff sticks to them(flux) the charcoal is easy to maintain and hold up better.
Im a silver worker / base metals no gold if it matters.