I'll be interested to hear what Trevor and Cynthia have to
suggest. I'm still learning a lot, but I don't miss the firescale!!
Well, Judy, I was going to "sit this one out" and let others
answer----I was thinking that maybe I have been "talking too much".
However, since you ask:
* Use a soldering surface that is nice and flat, and highly
reflective. (I like the way that some catalogs, such as Rio's,
discuss how reflective the the soldering block is, BTW.)
* instead of laying the flat sheet directly on the soldering block,
lay out some soldering pins (steel cotter pins that have been spread
in to V shapes, or steel T-pins, or lengths of heavy binding
wire....) so that they support the sheet, but allow you to direct the
flame under the metal so that you are not directing the flame at the
bezel. (I think I originally learned this technique from Fred
* after the initial heating, remember that the Argentium Sterling
Silver does not conduct the heat like regular sterling----so, don't
try to get the solder to flow all at once. If you are accustomed to
soldering gold, use a similar technique. (If you are not, then this
is good preparation for learning to solder gold!)
* whenever you are soldering a bezel, don't put the flame directly
on it---let the "side"of the flame, as you direct it at the larger
piece, get it hot
* consider putting the solder on the outside of the bezel, if you
are going to trim the sheet anyways. It makes it a bit easier to get
it to flow.
* why bother with such tiny pieces of solder? Let the capillary
action do the work for you.
Another method is to put a flat screen on a soldering trivet, and
heat from below. I don't personally care for that method, though, as
you have to get the screen hot. A lot of people like it, though....
I hope this helps!