Hello, I’m new here and joined and paid for a membership in hopes of reciveing some help and feedback on a project I am absolutly stumped with. I am a costume designer who is venturing into custom costume jewlery pieces that can be incorporated into my work. My first project was a cup chain ring that is about 1" wide and is 6" in dieameter. I used rhinestone cupchain I aquired from a couple places online and followed Jan Jewels tutorials on youtube. It appears I did this wrong and the cupchain I used was plated, and used the wrong soulder and also used a soldering iron instead of a torch because I was a little bit nervous about using a torch. Needless to say the stones popped out and the soulder started to crack.
I am attempting to remake this and am on a somewhat short deadline. This time I purchased some empty raw brass cupchain in two shapes and sizes. 10mm square for the middle and 5mm round that will go on either side of the square cup chain. Initially I used playdough to create the design, pushing each up together and forming a circle and the smaller cup chain rows on either side. Then souldered it. This time I am unsure about all of it. I did some research and it said to use RAW BRASS then solder then plate it. I am lookinf for a nickel finich or shiny silvery finish but felt nickel would be the strongest.
I am unsure what kind of soulder to use on the brass that will plate well.
Additionally I am looking to plate this in nickel unless there is something that would be better to use with brass and whatever soulder is best.
I also have never plated anything before. I am attempting to do this and gather supplies to make the bath with nickel soultion with brigtner in it already saving myself a step. I have never done this before and I am nervous.
If anyone can help guide me I would be very greatful! Or if anyone knows an easier way please share, if there is cup chain that is better than the brass that is already shiny silver that I can soulder together and it will be strong and not break that would be ideal so I dont have to try to plate it and risk ruining my entire piece again.
All suggestions welcome. I wish I had a way to share images of what I made so far but Im new here and not sure how to do that. I hope this makes some sense.
Thank you and have a wonderful day!
Dayna, welcome to Orchid.
Amazon lists quite a variety in silver finish with no need to plate it.
Use silver solder with your torch. Practice with Medium or Easy on scrap chain to get the hang of it. You might wrap the chain in wet cloth or keep it under water except for the small area to be soldered. Again practice with scrap to get the hang of it.
To upload a picture look above where you type your message for these icons. The one circled in red is what you’d click to begin the upload.
Good luck with your project!
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Hi DaynaR79554,
Your post took a bit of research for me to figure out how best to respond. Sorry about the delay!
First, in case you don’t know, there’s a big difference with the low temp solder that Jan’s Jewels uses and the higher temp solder that a lot of folks on this forum use. The rosin core solder in Jan’s Jewels videos melts at approximately 400F. A lot of folks on this forum use silver and gold solder that melts approximately 1000F to 1500F. That higher melting temp solder won’t melt with a soldering iron and requires a torch.
One advantage of the low temp solder is, if you’re careful, it won’t ruin plated jewelry, which is why Jan’s Jewels uses it. The higher temp solder will destroy the plating.
Plating or replating is complicated. It involves fairly toxic acid or cyanide solutions and specialized equipment. I don’t have any recommendations about that.
As you said you’re talking about making costume jewelry. That path can be a different one from working with silver, gold, platinum and precious stones. My best advice for you while you’re learning is to take advantage of a site like Jan’s Jewels. That website sells everything you need and has many informative videos. Once you figure things out, you’ll be able to source your tools and supplies elsewhere.
Another piece of advice is to consider taking a jewelry class at a community college, a regional art center or elsewhere. It’s often amazing how much faster folks learn when a teacher is looking over their shoulder and giving on the spot feedback while doing a task.
I hope all this helps a little bit.
Best of luck!!
Jeff
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Here’s a fun video that I found with cup chain for you to consider trying. Wire wrapping is low tech, but to do it well takes practice. For this ring you wouldn’t need many tools and just a bit of materials. Cheers! Jeff
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Instead of using the rosin core type solder, use TIX solder and flux. Melts at 275 F. Does not discolor like the lead type solder. I have used this for many years on costume jewelry.
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