A while back the blade on my diamond bandsaw broke, at the point of
the original joint. I’ve been told this can be successfully repaired
in the studio. I took a stab at it, without success. I really had a
hard time setting up the soldering job… keeping the two ends in
proper alignment and in contact with each other. When I finally was
able to attempt the soldering job, all I could get the silver solder
to do was ball up and sit there. Would not flow into the joint.
Any general tips on silver soldering stainless steel? What flux?
Special considerations? Even more important, has anyone actually
performed this task and can provide specific advice?
Thanks in advance!
Dave
Dave Sebaste
Sebaste Studio
Charlotte, NC (USA)
Note From Ganoksin Staff:
Looking for aBenchtop Bandsaw tool for your jewelry projects? We recommend:
Welcome back. You need a particularly active flux to silver solder
stainless. It is called black flux and is available from Rio (Handy
Flux type B-1), or your local welding supply should have it as well
several flux manufacturers make it. It contains additives that break
down the chromium oxides that help make stainless steel stain-less
and make it tough to solder.
Jim Binnion
James Binnion Metal Arts
Phone (360) 756-6550
Toll Free (877) 408 7287
Fax (360) 756-2160
@James_Binnion
Member of the Better Business Bureau
What a difference a little flux makes! The trick to silver
soldering stainless steel is to use Handy Flux B which contains
boron (this is different from boric acid found in other fluxes) It
is a black paste flux so you can’t mistake it for regular handy
flux. You can get it from Rio or from a welding supplier. It’s
great stuff, the reason it works is that it has a higher fluxing
temperature thanother fluxes and can be used in those situations
when you’re likely to use up the flux before the soldering is done.
You will be amazed how the solder flows with it.
Hope this helps,
Gail
Note From Ganoksin Staff:
Looking for aBenchtop Bandsaw tool for your jewelry projects? We recommend: