This is actually something that I was worried about. If my
original mentor was still in the states, I'm sure he would let me
use his rolling stretcher,
I have seen the picture and it can be stretched without any gadgets.
Anneal it first. Judging by color, alloy has a lot of copper in it,
so to anneal - use reducing soft noiseless flame. There should be no
hissing. Ideally, it should take around 5 minutes to reach annealing
temperature, but do not keep the ring at annealing temperature. Once
reached, plunge it into cold water. Correct temperature of red and
rose golds is NOT VISIBLE RED.
Once metal looks clean under flame but oxidized when not, the
temperature has been reached. With red gold it is better to
under-anneal than over.
To stretch you will need goldsmith hammer pein end. Put ring on
steel mandrel and forge with slight angle away from setting, driving
metal to the center of the shank, Once center is reached, start
forging from another end. Blows should not overlap and be equally
After every course of forging, anneal and check for distortion. If
present, correct it with rawhide hammer, NOT STEEL.
Blows should light. If more than one course of forging is required,
hit between previous hammer marks. Once within half a size of the
required size, use planishing end to finish the job.
Before starting forging, protect sapphires with nail polish, so they
would not vibrate.
Remove nail polish by soaking in acetone before each annealing and
When finished, re-tighten stones with beading tool.