should it? sure if you want to modify it’s shape…it’s tough
I’ve had very good results using silver solder on stainless 304
tubing and flat stock.
After soldering I “pickel” by electrostripping with citric acid
(courtesy of here on orchid)
Need an expensive power supply you ask? No, Use a standard cordless
tool 18 volt battery as your power supply.
Run a copper wire through a short hard plastic handle of some kind.
Take the copper wire through the middle of
a scotch brite pad and secure the pad on the handle. This lead wire
goes to the negative side of the battery.
Most of the time you don’t even need the pad, but it can be used to
scrub stubborn oxides.
Go from the positive battery terminal to an alligator clip. Connect
it to the work piece being stripped.
In a suitable container, have enough citric acid solution to
submerge the article being worked on.
place the work piece in the citric acid with the alligator attached.
citric acid is available at some markets ( for cooking) or on the
works like magic to remove oxides… but best practice is to AVOID
black oxides by using a good flux - florided flux works best for me,
but i strictly use a vent hood on HIGH when i do it.
stainless polishes like chrome with bobbing, rouge, and zam. each
step makes it shinier!
the ring shanks i’ve made seem really rugged, impervious to daily
wear by a harsh user.
Good hand strength is required to make ring shanks from flat
stock… even using “ring bending” pliers it’s
bend, anneal, hammer, and go again and again till you get it
smooth… white gold solder provides the best color match.
about electrostripping the stainless…
I almost forgot about passivating…
let the work piece sit in a warmed bath of the citric acid for 20-30
minutes…then rinse with water.
Without passivating, the stainless surface remains "electrolically"
active: the surface can react
with chemicals and oils/salts from skin… may happen or may not…
but it’s an easy step.
- credit goes to Bob Edwards at Chromis Designs for the info*.
it all worked great for me.