Should i draw my wire through each hole twice or just once?

Got a general basic question here. I have built my own powered, draw bench and basically wanting to know if I should draw my wire through each hole twice on the draw plate or just once. Trying to cut down on processing time.

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I only draw once, but do it slowly with some sort of lubrication. The wire on the input side can get to shaking or vibrating if I pull it too fast. This is something that your powered draw bench might do. At least for me, this shaking or vibrating leaves small waves in the wire on the output side. Just my $.02…Rob

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drawing once is enough per hole. parafin wax makes a good lubricant. as soon as the wire shows any sign of stiffening, anneal, anneal often… annealing is essential to prevent cracking, surface blemishes and internal cracks or weak points. clean the residual carbon off the wire between annealing and drawing, then reapply lubricant. I used parafin wax because it could be pushed into the holes of the drawplate.
If the wire is vibrating it could be too stiff. If your draw is powered, al the more power to you!!! … slow pull gentler than fast though, adjust the speed.

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Thank you, gave it a try on yesterday and drawing through 1 hole 1 time is plenty. Cut my time at the draw bench in half. Thanks for the info

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I would love to know how to make my own!

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Kimberly…Making wire is fairly easy. As long as you can cast and roll out ingots to a smaller square shape, all you need is a draw plate and some sort of draw bench. There has been a lot of discussion about draw benches that you can access in the archives. You can buy draw plates in many different shapes that progress through various size ranges. Don’t buy inexpensive draw plates. It’s another one of those ā€œjust do itā€ exercises after which you will wonder why you waited so long. just remember to anneal often. Good luck…Rob

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You mentioned basics in another post… some basics that will save you money: make your own sheet and wire… you will have to invest in a rolling mill that does rods as well as sheets. Rolling mills are pricey but well worth the investment. You also will need to invest in an ingot mold. I have a steel adjustable mold that will take a pour for a sheet ingot and for rods… Pouring molds requires some practice… the mold has to be well heated for molten metal to fully fill the space… first attempts can be failures, even second or third… but the metal can be remelted and reused so there’s no loss… just be mindful that pouring molten metal is very dangerous… any spills will burn anything that is combustible.
I did all of my pouring outside on a homemade table top with a ceramic tile inset with left over tiles from a bathroom remodling project. Having the top inset helps catch spills and saves metal, as well as preventing molten metal from falling on anything combustible and setting it on fire…
The final thing to invest in is a draw plate. These are not very expensive… steel draw plates have graded holes going from 1 gauge down to 22g or even smaller… One you’ve poured a rod ingot, pass it thru the rolling mill to the smallest size that the mill has… rolling is the same as pulling wire… the rod has to be repeatedly annealed and cleaned…if you pickle between rollings make sure that the rod is well cleaned and free or acid. also well dried… you don’t want acid or water to get on the mill and ruin the finish…once you have a rod with a small enough diameter, sharpen the end with a file so that the tip will stick thru the drawplate and pull it through… some people use draw tongs to pull, but I’ve found that a set of heavy duty pliers works just as well… with each pull you will need to sharpen the end to a tip for it to fit into the next smaller hole… just repeat the process until your wire is at the gauge that you want…it’s repetitious, but pretty amazing how long a wire of small gauge can be pulled from a small rod…ten feet or more… you will need to cut the wire in half when it get’s too long… too hard to evenly pull a 6 foot long wire…you can make enough wire in one session to last a long time… I did it before the internet was in full swing… looked it up in books… now all of the information on how to make wire is online…

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Draw benches don’t need to be expensive or fancy… I made a stand for my rolling mill out of scrap 2X 6 lumber. The boards were doubled up for stabiity, strength and weight… no rocking of the stand when used… I used the same stand with a large jawed clamp bolted in… clamped the draw plate, and started pulling…no need for draw tongs or other expensive accessories… heavy duty pliers did the job for pulling. pulling one rod makes a very long length of wire…

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I forgot to mention that rolling out the rod has to be done carefully also… as soon as the metal feels a bit stiff, anneal… anneal often… work hardening of the metal will lead to surface flaking, internal cracks and other defects. Any defects in the rod will carry over into the wire…same goes for rolling out sheet… err on the side of NOT thinning out the metal quickly… Don’t try to squeeze something down too quickly as it will lead to defects…

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Ate you wanting to make your own powered draw bench?

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Yes

Practice make perfect. I second the ā€˜just do it’.

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Don’t bother with a powered draw bench… start with just doing it!.. pour the rod, roll it and pull only need a heavy duty pair of locking pliers… took me several pours to get it right… some of my rods cracked… not getting the perfect result the first time is not abnormal… next time goes easier and the next time easier… pulling didn’t present a problem once you do it in a steady and interrupted motion…once you get the hang of it, it’s fine… just remember that you can make many feet of wire from a single rod pour… don’t need to to it very often if you are doing home studio work…

Also refer to the discussion of ingot embrittlement… ā€œhelp needed with cracking sterling silverā€ā€¦this discussion is about one of the problems you can run across and happens quite frequently… what is happening with the silver cracking in this particular case still is unsolved, but the common causes have been discussed…avoiding the common ones will save you some time and frustration… this specific case is still somewhat of a mystery as the common problems have been excluded… the last post on the topic mentioned testing the metal with XRF… looking now at trace element contamination…way beyond what most people would have a problem with…

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my apologies, I misdirected my post to you instead of to KimberlyJ… sorry

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Sorry for misdirecting my post to CletisS… It was suposed to be directed to you… you can see it on this thread…didn’t catch it until now when the discussion is old… hope you have tried something in the interval… just do it was my bottom line contribution, seconded by MichealS. Let us know where you are in your endeavor… best of luck…and sorry for to CletisS and you for the misdirect.

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