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Setting techniques of flat cabochon


#1

Setting techniques of flat cabochon: bezel to give apearance of
being thicker?

So I have a lovely little boulder opal cabochon that I’d like to
make into a ring. Only problem is that it is quite flat. Well, not
really a problem, but I feel that it would look a bit more
interesting if was raised a bit more off the hand.I was thinking of
cutting the bezel strip out of 24 or 26 ga (I’m using Argentium),
then perhaps soldering wire (square?) mid way up on the bezel. Then
soldering the bezel to a backplate. I guess that making sure the
inside wire is level will be important. Does anyone have any other
suggestions? I’m also wondering if the base of the bezel will be
robust enough - sometimes thin bezel sheet can be dented…

I’m open to ideas!
Thanks
Ros


#2

You can do this by cutting and inserting a “spacer” into the bezel
first.

Or, gluing the spacer to the stone thus making a doublet. Reportedly
you can fill the void with a tamped down mixture of sawdust and
epoxy. I just don’t think I could bring myself to use sawdust or
epoxy in a piece of jewelry :slight_smile:

Brent


#3

Ros, I set quite a bit of boulder opal - it can be quite challenging
and loves nothing better than to chip just as you bend over the last
bit of the bezel, or as you are doing the last bit of burnishing.

The idea you have for setting it sounds OK to me, but, because opal
is rather fragile and doesn’t really take any rough treatment or
being dunked in dishwater too kindly, at least consider something
else - maybe a brooch or pendant.

(OK, I know there are zillions of opal rings out there, some of them
magnificent and valuable stones, but there you go…)


#4

Ros,

I just slip in a ring made of a strip which is narrower than the
bezel. it needn’t be soldered. If it is about.70-.90 mm thick, it
makes a sturdy, stable seat for the stone, as well as strengthening
the bezel wall. And since it is a separate piece which is not
soldered to the bezel, it can be any metal (I usually use copper or
nickel silver) without affecting the quality stamp. The biggest
advantage is that since it is mechanically inserted, you can easily
put it in and take it out to make any necessary adjustments. And it
is pretty easy to get the bezel ring and the step ring parallel.

Janet in Jerusalem