Guy, and all on Orchid ! It's me again.
These notes on setting techniques are now going to be presented at
my four seminar classes on the Friday. this will be one of my
hand-outs of Claw settings also. I will be at the "Bench, Conference"
on April 27-30th in Denver, CO. Come on down and join "us". I will
also be giving two days of live setting demonstrations on Saturday
and Sunday. Drop by, and say "Hello".
Now to continue on with these setting notes. I don't have much
experience, maybe 12,267+ working days (47 years) might be in
order..:>) You are right, the ultimate game plan is to have the metal
bond with the stone. No gaps, or spaces, or even a maligned claw to
the stone. So how do I do it? Don't' tell anyone, it's a "trade
In some of my postings, I do mention a strange little item of joy
its called a Bud Bur, I call it my "Buddy-Bur"!! It has a SQU number
of "6" don't ask me why, but that's the generic description of it. In
fact, in my second setting book, I fully explain the merriad of uses
for this remarkable little tool, a.k.a. "Bud Bur". One of these
little secrets, per se, is to help the setter to exactly mold the
claw right to, and over the claw. This is right at the pivot point of
the girdle. Many times THIS IS JUST WHERE the spaces can occur. This
space also occurs at the area where the Pavillion of the stone meets
the metal claw. So how in heck can we create a near-perfect seat for
this stone? Her are my answers to those who need to know.
(1) For the thick girdle, I use a bud bur at a size, not to exceed
bur width of #006,the measurement really means it is.006 mm's in
width. If you select a bur width of #008 or a greater number you,
will have another space to contend with, bad news! Generally a bur
width #005 is too fine to use in this setting process.
I will ask you, and all, who are reading this to get your fresh or
new bud bur, and at the exact point of where the girdle is to sit use
this bur and grind a little metal away. You are now making larger,
the sharp "V" shaped cut made by your 156C or undercutting bur. You
are basically widening this V-cut!! Plain and simple, right? "Thou
Shalt not proceed to cut FURTHER INTO THE CLAW".
(2) If you are trying to set a stone with uneven girdle, I again,
will use the bud bur and carefully scribe at the inside of the slaw
just where that apart of the stone will meet the metal. Once you have
decided use the bud AGAIN, and proceed to cut a shade deeper INTO the
claw. Now you can use your 156C and go the regular process of setting
the stone, Do not change where the stone is to sit. You have to make
the corporate decision and not to rotate the stone once the stone has
been fitted. You are making this a "specially contoured" adjustment
just for this poorly cut stone. Got it?
(3) Finally, for the areas with a Pavilion that are to meet the
claw. Another use for the "Buddy-Bur" file. I use this fantastic bur
as a "Mini-File" I could use a larger bur of maybe #007-#008 and to
proceed this filing maneuver right from the junction point of the "V"
and follow the metal right down to its base, or where the Pavilion
falls away from the claw. I use this bur held horizontally and
scrape, or remove the metal that is not allowing the stone sit
against the metal claw. Be ruddy careful and not scallop away too much
metal in this process, lest you make a very uneven 'file' cut. You
might be defeating this whole process. You should practice these
steps till you go the hang of it. It might take a few years to
'master' these techniques.:>)
Remember this, I prefer to use a 90 degree angle bur, not the
shallow 70 degree angle. The 90 degree is almost the same angle as
the stone you are trying to set."156C", "under-cutting bur", "bearing
cutter" and lastly the "under-cutting bur" are all the same bur. Some
tool suppliers use different names for the same thing. What I have
been telling you all is a trade secret so don't' tell anyone please,
or I might be inundated with threats of giving away secrets... !
Always here to help those who need help. Gerry Lewy! a.k.a. Gerry,