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Setting of low quality stones

Jewelry Discussion
#1

Hello to everybody!

I wonder if I can pose the query below to this very erudite audience.

In low quality stones, the prong pressure usually increases the size
and area of the feathers at the edge/corner of the stones. This is
especially the case with cuts with sharp corners such as princesses.
Here, one does not have a choice on the position of the prongs; they
have to be at the corners. How do you mitigate this problem?

I feel that, during setting, the force on the stone needs to be
reduced without affecting the prong pressure. There could be many
ways to go about this.

One method could be a thin coat of a transparent, rubbery, adhesive
so that the force on the stone is reduced. If so, where would I get
an adhesive that can be used in stone setting? Or, is there some
other method?

Any help/suggestions that you offer would be most welcome.

Regards,
Rasesh Chasmawala.

#2 
   In low quality stones, the prong pressure usually increases the
size and area of the feathers at the edge/corner of the stones.
This is especially the case with cuts with sharp corners such as
princesses. Here, one does not have a choice on the position of the
prongs; they have to be at the corners. How do you mitigate this
problem?

Why don’t you just use better quality stones?

Daniel R. Spirer, G.G.
Daniel R. Spirer Jewelers, LLC
1780 Massachusetts Ave.
Cambridge, MA 02140
@Daniel_R_Spirer
www.spirerjewelers.com

#3

If I had such poor quality stones at my bench peg. I would let the
manager know in no uncertain terms, its ‘his’ risk, not mine…I’d
immediately refuse to touch them, unless he is fully aware of his
inferior quality…If any break due to the setting process “it ain’t
my problem”…gerry! and I completely agree with David Spirer.

#4

Thanks Daniel and Gerry for your inputs.

Regarding Daniels’s suggestion of using better quality stones, what
do you do when someone specifically asks for I1/I2 clarities and
won’t pay for better clarities?

The problem is that even if the stones don’t break during setting,
they look worse after setting than when they are loose.

Regards,
Rasesh Chasmawala.

#5 
   "Regarding Daniels's suggestion of using better quality stones,
what do you do when someone specifically asks for I1/I2 clarities
and won't pay for better clarities?"

The obvious answer is that you gently advise the person that you do
not set that quality of stone and then recommend someone whomight.

Jerry in Kodiak

#6

Rasesh

The only way a "feather’ will evolve into being a larger inclusion,
if a much greater weight is then brought down upon it. When dealing
with Princesses and other stones with corner inclusions, you must
use greater and absolute care.

What do I do? I apply the normal downward pressure on the remaining
3 claws and being rather careful now. I would let the remaining 4th
claw just sit, lean into, or against, the Princess stone. I would
shy away from applying any “extra & equal” pressure as from the
other claws in this 4 claw setting. Basically, "internal feathers"
do not grow with pressure, they are an integral part of the stone.
Also that area might be a weaker area. The stone have the tendency
to ‘fracture’ further, but not grow as you have previously mentioned
…This is just semantics or choice or words.

I sincerely hope that I have helped you. Gerry Lewy! a.k.a. “Gerry,
the Cyber-Setter!”

#7 
Regarding Daniels's suggestion of using better quality stones,
what do you do when someone specifically asks for I1/I2 clarities
and won't pay for better clarities?

Tell them you don’t work in those qualities of stones and that they
will have to go elsewhere to find such dreck. Then find some
customers who want better quality stones.

Daniel R. Spirer, G.G.
Daniel R. Spirer Jewelers, LLC
1780 Massachusetts Ave.
Cambridge, MA 02140
@Daniel_R_Spirer
www.spirerjewelers.com

#8 
Regarding Daniels's suggestion of using better quality stones, what
do you do when someone specifically asks for I1/I2 clarities and
won't pay for better clarities?

Make them pre pay for the work and no returns, and sign the
agreement. If they won’t let them walk. My fathers first watch making
instructor always said “You can’t make a silk purse out of a sows
ear.” Ebay is full of people that want a $100 item for 2 bucks.

Tim…

#9 
You can't make a silk purse out of a sows ear.

Unfortunately you can no longer use this as a statement because a
rather high powered consulting company that used to exist in
Cambridge, MA proved that, in fact, you can make a silk purse out of
a sow’s ear by actually doing it. I’m sorry but I was out celebrating
my best friend’s 50th birthday tonight so I am far too trashed to
remember the name of the company but they also proved that you could
make a lead balloon fly. And yes, they did, in fact, actually
accomplish these two feats.

Daniel R. Spirer, G.G.
Daniel R. Spirer Jewelers, LLC
1780 Massachusetts Ave.
Cambridge, MA 02140
@Daniel_R_Spirer
www.spirerjewelers.com