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Setting Demantoid Darnets

Jewelry Discussion
#1

For all you stone-setters out there -

I have a set of small demantoids, from 3mm to 6mm, all round. They
are beautiful together and I plan to make a necklace with them
hanging, interspersed with small diamonds, like droplets of dew. The
problem is this - the vision I have for the necklace would call for
bezel setting the stones, probably in 14kt yellow, tho 18kt is a
possibility. The seller of the stones told me that they are fragile

  • easily fractured - and better suited for prong setting unless
    you’re really, really gentle setting the bezels. I REALLY don’t want
    to crack these stones - I only have four and the necklace won’t make
    it if I lose one. Also, I wonder if prong setting might not allow
    more light in anyway and take advantage of the stones’ brilliance.
    Does anyone have recommendations on how to proceed?

Thanks in advance, and for all your other helpful hints (eg, I did
not use tin/repair solder on my silver menorah, and I now use nails
in my flexshaft with sandpaper glued on the heads or steel wool
wrapped around them for smoothing awkward interior surfaces - many
thanks to whoever it was who suggested that.)

Regards,
Linda

#2

I haven’t ever had problems bezel setting demantoids but I only use
18k or 22k bezels. You might want to consider 22k bezels if you are
really concerned.

Daniel R. Spirer, G.G.
Daniel R. Spirer Jewelers, LLC
1780 Massachusetts Ave.
Cambridge, MA 02140
617-234-4392
www.spirerjewelers.com

#3

Hi Linda,

What a great subject you wrote, the best typo I seen in years (or
was it intentional).

Alain

#4

Hi, Linda,

At the SNAG conference in St Pete, I bought a parcel of beautiful
small round demantoids-- about 4 or 5 mm. I have flush-set two of
them in silver with no problem, and that is much chancier (requiring
hammering) than closing a bezel. They are, indeed, very sparkly.
Prong setting them will allow more of the stone to show, but will not
change the amount of light flashing out, which is all coming in
through the top (if they are cut right). You can test this easily by
setting a stone on the back of your hand, between your fingers right
where they come together. This pretty much eliminates light from the
sides of the stone. It may even look better this way than just loose,
if only because it will face straight up.

–Noel

#5

Linda, 24kt is so sweet to work, looks beautiful and will hardly cost
any more to set such small stones. I’d recommend you go that way
and avoid any risk. Marianne (don’t you just love the color of those
stones!?)

#6

Demantoid is a species of andradite Garnet and has all of the same
properties for setting purposes as any other andradite, with one
exception; occasionally, they may have some minor parting.
Otherwise, they have good hardness, fair to good toughness, and no
distinct cleavage. An experienced setter should have no problems.

James in SoFl