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Setter's constant advice!

I’m setting some CZ’s into some 22kt. ‘sample rings’ for my client.
He gave me batches of stones 2.00 - 2.50mm’s, but no 2.25m’s. My
telephone call back to him was you should supply me with 2.25…"well
can’t you just squeeze them in?..I don’t squeeze in stones, **I set
…The first batch was even worse. no 2.75mm’s, or not enough
3.00 mm’s. I can’t judge sizes by just looking at a ring from 3 feet

Why can’t the wholesalers first telephone the setter for advice?
Communication will & can save so much wasted time. He now has to
drive 45 miles each way, just to deliver those missing stones. on a
Sunday, even!..Give me the 14 designs & let me decide what sizes are
needed. so much back & forth wasted trips…:>(…Gerry Lewy

Why can't the wholesalers first telephone the setter for advice? 

Because they don’t care.

Paf Dvorak

It makes me crazy when I ask a diamond broker for X size stones and
they send me what they have, not what will fit. They don’t seen to
understand how important the right size is in setting. Especially
when it comes to channel setting. 1/2 of a millimeter is a mile when
it comes to setting stones.

Jo Haemer

Hi all

1/2 of a millimeter is a mile when it comes to setting stones. 

Ain’t that the truth. I use Swarovski Signity cut stones they are
perfect and all exactly the same size. They spoil you.

Other stones are never exact which is why I make all my bezels for
those stones. Also some girdles are not even so need to cut uneven
seats to fit the stones, boring.

Why don’t the gem dealers measure the stones? Lazy?

all the best

Hi Jo, Pat, & all!

Thankfully, my diamond dealer gives me exact dimensions on when
I’m ordering my stones. as in 1.3 mm’s, etc’s. I find the cheaper
cz’s have thick & thin girdles. heck of a way to set a Gypsy/Flush
setting ‘demo’.

The Swarovsky are many pennies more expensive, but are 95% exact on
their measurements.

But alas, you get what you’re paying for. I find many of the
companies use them for ‘setting, then casting in wax’.

Sometimes I find if I need 2.50mm’s, I might find 2.45 or 2.55 mm’s
thrown in. But 2.60mm+ is a nightmare on ‘Pre-Cut, Bead-Setting’ then
time is lost searching for the exact sizes.

Forget about the depth of the Pavilion, those thicker ones are a
curse in setting on any style. Imagine getting a stone with a thick
girdle & a deep Pavillion, I’d just avoid them, then mess with it! Who
says our job is easy?..Gerry Lewy

Hi all

Who says our job is easy? 

no one who sets stones. I can work for hours on a piece to get to
the stone setting part.

Then with some stones particularly opals which seem to be the worst
cut stones of all it can be heart attack material. But when the stone
is set well it is all worth it.

Which is why when gentlemen like Gerry and ladies like Jo (and all
the rest on Orchid) share their knowledge it really is a joy and a
great value to the trade. You are a legends! We all thank you. Dying
trade, no way! Learn something new every day after 25 years of silver
and gold smithing. Only problem not enough bench hours in a week to
use all the info.

all the best