Scroll Saws - I just saw a reasonably priced saw at Sears ( under
$200) that has the makings of a good metal saw. The most vital part is
a raising and lowering foot that you can set with just a bit fo
clearance to the metal, it should not be too springy, so it holds the
metal down firmly. The next important item is the ability to take
JEWELERS SAW BLADES. I use as big a size as possible #6 or #7, and
these don’t break, they wear out, as you go down in size expect some
breakage. Buy Rio’s Laser blades, they have a more elastic backing. I
made my own foot out of hardenable steel.and cut a small notch for the
blade to rest in, this is a great help when you have turn sharp
corners. The notch should only come partway up on the blade, not over
the teeth. The foot can be screwed to the existing foot or even soft
soldered to it after it is hardened, Use acid cored solder and clean
the parts well with emery paper. Line up the foot well so it does not
bend the blade. Push the metal with a piece of wood, and don’t get
your fingers too close to the blade, when it breaks you don’t want to
have a finger pierced. Contact me off line for a drawing. Look up my
web site for some of the boxes I have made, where all the parts are
sawed to keep the metal flat, instead shearing it.
<artsights.com - artsights Resources and Information.> also see my neat tool for cutting
precision grooves in metal prior to bending, for jewelery and boxes.
John Burton (boy engineer)