Scroll saws are made for cutting wood. Since they are designed for
cutting wood up to the size of a 2x4, the stroke is limited to about
5/8". This varies a little depending upon the manufacturer. A
standard jewelers blade has 2-1/2" of teeth. Using only 5/8" of the
blade seems wasteful. Also, since the blade is moving way too fast
over a very short distance, the blade heats up and loses temper and
dulls rapidly. The heating of the blade means that you cannot use
the saw for cutting plastics. Plastics simply melt and weld
themselves to the blade.
Since they are for wood, slow speed is not important and most of
them have only two speeds. The slow speed is way too fast for blade
life and control of the workpiece, and the fast speed is simply out
of the question. Most of them require wrenches to tighten the blade
clamp (and what is the most frequently lost or misplaced item?)
Many of the scroll saws do not have built-in safety in the event
that the blade breaks. The broken stub of the blade can either
damage the workpiece, or even worse, drive itself into your finger!
Let me tell you, in the event that this occurs, the decision process
gets pretty dicey having to decide whether to push or pull.
For all of the above reasons, I decided to design and build a saw
that is specifically for cutting metal. It addresses every one of
the problems listed above, with several features that have never
before been available to the jeweler. For example:
The speeds are from zero to 120 strokes a minute and use the full
2-1/2" of the blade.
Daniel Brush is cutting filagree patterns in 1/8" thick stainless
steel, and he just sent me this email:
Every time I’m with the saw I say the same thing to Olivia, my wife.
I frankly don’t think I could make these pieces without this saw-not
because of the time-but because of the smooth delivery. Cutting
stainless by hand is like an ice breaker going through Alaskan
waters, I imagine-choppy and irregular. This saw eliminates the
inconsistency, and lets me cut a nice swath through the very mean
None of the scroll saws provide support for the back of the blade at
the point where the sawing occurs. The blade acts like the string of
a bow as you push the metal into it. This constant flexing stresses
the blade, causing premature failure. The Knew Concepts saw has a
carbide support just below the bench pin, and another one just above
the metal. As a result, there is almost no flexing of the blade in
this critical area. Take a look at the video of the saw in action at
www.knewconcepts.com. There is also a pdf of the instructions for
the saw that show all of the details.
Repetitive blade tensioning is handled by simply pushing a lever at
the upper rear of the frame. It is fully adjustable with a knurled
knob. Since the blade drive mechanism is a cable, the blade completes
the circle. When the blade breaks, the cable cannot push or pull the
blade, and even though your reactions may not stop instantly, the
broken blade cannot do anything except retract, doing no damage to
either you or the workpiece.
If you have occasion to cut metal at an angle (such as making a
blanking die) scroll saws require that you tilt the table. With the
Knew Concepts Saw, the saw frame tilts up to 45 degrees in both
directions simply by loosening a lever at the rear of the saw.
Scroll saws are BIG and require their own stand which takes up
valuable floor space in your studio. The Knew Concepts Saw clamps to
the edge of your bench with two hand knobs and is removed when you
are finished sawing. It can be hung on the wall until needed.
I could go on, but you get the idea. I design equipment for jewelers
and metalsmiths. I understand your needs. If you consider the
functionality, the total support from a product that is made here in
the U.S. and used by Jim Binnion, Cynthia Eid, Phil Poirier, Daniel
Brush (who has two of them), and others, you will easily come to the
conclusion that there is simply nothing else out there that meets
your needs as well as the Knew Concept Saw.