the difference between doing it the "Studio Arete" way and the "quicker" way is the difference between having an unsaleable, too-expensive masterpiece, and having a piece that matches the budgets and expectations of our customers.
99% of goldsmiths are trapped into erroneous thinking that quality
of work should depend on a price. We all getting paid not in dollars
or any other currency, but we getting paid in the “goldsmith
lifestyle”. It is very important to understand. Just because I work
with more expensive items, it does not mean that my lifestyle is
different from someone who does repairs all day long. Hourly
compensation, number of hours at the bench required, all other
factors which can be grouped under goldsmith lifestyle is very
similar. So we all make a choice what to do with our time. We can
either spend it refining tiny details or we can concentrate of
getting out certain number of units per hour.
I always try to steer towards finer end of the spectrum because mass
production of jewellery will lead to commoditizing the product to
such an extent (we almost their by the way ) that title of goldsmith
would have no meaning. Every time we reach for some shortcut, some
“almost the same” substitute, we getting closer and closer to the
point of no return.
If someone want to specialize in higher end, the first step is to
ask a simple question. Do I start by updating the prices and if I can
sell, then start upgrading the quality ? Or do I start by instituting
the strictest quality control and let the prices find their own level
in the market ? The later plan seems to me have a better chance of
success.
Let me share one incident. When channel setting was just introduced,
I got an order for eternity band set with 3 mm round emeralds channel
style. I had no idea how to do channel. So I executed the mounting
and
sent the ring to be set to a setter who was very good at channel. At
that time, the going rate for extra fancy in that size was $3 for
diamonds. Emeralds were a bit more. I gave him blank check to charge
whatever time it took, but I needed the best quality possible. She
was an important client.
One week later she brought the ring back. She was carrying it in her
purse which she put on the trunk of her car and forgot about it. She
started to back up. Purse fell on the ground and she ran over the
purse with the ring inside it. When she brought the ring back it had
a figure 8 shape, but not a single emerald was lost or damaged. She
paid for the new mounting and all emeralds were reused.
The setter charged me only $5 a stone and was very happy to do it.
Once one knows how to do it right, it does not really take much
longer than to use a shortcut, whatever it might be.
Leonid Surpin