Does anyone out there have an opinion on the proper way to set rose
cut diamonds? I’m talking about pave setting, not bezels or prongs
(and don’t say glue them in…). I have seen several examples, both
old and new, with the stones set various ways.
I have seen them set dome-side up and dome-side down. The dome-side
up stones were set in an 18k/sterling Edwardian collar. The dome-side
down stones were set in a bracelet, circa 1830.
Most of the stones I saw had open backs, that is the settings were
drilled through and the stones were then secured by beads. Some
examples, however, had polished metal or foil behind the stones. One
fine example had “facets” engraved behind the stone like a pinwheel.
I know that there are probably as many ways to set a stone as there
are stonesetters, and that many 19th c. setters may have improvised
as much as we do now.