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Rose Cut Diamond Engagement Ring

We are working on a commission where the client wants a rose cut diamond center (around 7.5mm). I’ve sourced a stone I like and that the client is pleased with, but I was surprised how limited the options were!

A few questions for y’all -

  1. How do you source rose cut diamonds? I found a good source in LA who seems to specialize in them, but is it just hit or miss and you work your rolodex, as I did?

  2. Special considerations when setting or designing? The client wants the ring done in plat (95/5 is what we typically use), but I am fearful that high polish underneath the stone is going to either look really good or really bad given the somewhat windowed nature of a rose cut.

  3. Other thoughts? We seem to be getting more and more of these requests lately, are you?

Rose cut diamonds would benefit from a polished base. Reflective and colored foils have been used for hundreds of years before we figured out the geometry and technology to do modern cuts on stones. Just read Benvenuto Cellini. Older cut stones were also cut to shine in candle light which was the only source of man made light til Edison.
Tim and I don’t get requests for rose cuts. We’ve never been asked.
Have fun with this commission. Post pics when it’s done. I’d love to see it.
-Jo Haemer

I can’t really help with your questions but just have to say, I love rose cuts. I have purchased one for myself at the J&LW show. I would love to see the ring you are working on when it is done. I haven’t set mine yet.

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It’s a funky organic-type design - I’ll post it up when we are done!

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Just to confuse things. The three or four I made or worked on last year were all bezel set, open backed, yellow gold, either organic or very simple (straight round shank) designs. The jobs came with the loose center stones, can’t help you there.

I assumed the interest in these originated on Pinterest or Etsy. But maybe not?

PS The open bezels were all raised above the finger to allow light from beneath to the stone.

Hi seth,
I’ve got a thing for rose cuts, I’ll post a necklace when I get back.
I always use reflectors (as Jo Mentioned) they move the light around well, can be bright or subtly textured. You do need a clean-out hole (s) , best under the girdle + small (.5mm is fine) if moisture gets between the stone and the reflector it’s obvious, you’ll need a simple way to steam them out.
On necklace / bracelet links I leave them open, just wrap a bezel around the girdle so they done care if they’re up or down.
My thoughts…