Resizing a ring with design work around it

How do you resize a ring that has design work all the way around it
such as a celtic knot weave, etc?

Also, how do you resize a ring that has stones set around it’s complete
circumfrence without messing up the space distribution


    How do you resize a ring that has design work all the way
around it such as a celtic knot weave, etc? Also, how do you resize
a ring that has stones set around it's complete circumfrence without
messing up the space distribution

Hello Craig;

It’s simply not always possible in these situations. Here are some
possibilities. In the case of the Celtic design, if there is a border
on the edges of the ring, you might be able to shrink it down a half
size, maximum, in the compression part of one of those lever operated
ring stretchers. If there’s no border, you risk damaging the design.
If you need to make it larger, sometimes you can stretch it in said
ring stretcher, but take it easy and watch what is happening, since
stretching seems to occur mostly in the thinnest areas. I wouldn’t
think you’d get much more than a quarter, possibly a half size. You
can also sometimes make an inner sleeve than can be soldered inside
to reduce the diameter. Sometimes there’s enough thickness to grind
out a bit and get maybe an eighth of a size increase.

Now, the stone set ring is another matter. I’ve sized up eternity
bands (set completely around with diamonds or other) in cases where
the stones can withstand torch heat by cutting between two stones
with a very fine sawblade, fitting in a piece and setting another
stone or two. Obviously, this only works where the increase in size
is commensurate with the width of the additional stone(s). Sizing
down, the options are more or less limited to the aforementioned
addition of an inner sleeve. Don’t try stretching these kinds of
rings, as the stretching will all take place in the areas beneath
the stones. If the stones can’t take heat and can’t be unset, you’ll
need a laser to weld in the piece. And as for sizing down such a
ring, it would be a case of cutting out a stone or stones, depending
on how much you needed to reduce it, and again, the logic changes
when the stones don’t take heat.

These are obviously situations calling for advanced technical
knowledge and skill. Perhaps you can post a URL to a jpg image or
give us more and one of us might be able to further
advise you.

David L. Huffman

Hello Craig,

Celtic knotwork ring designs are a specialty of mine. As David
Huffman correctly suggested, your best bet is a lever opperated ring
sizer.You can size up a full size or more from the cast size on most
rings without too much distortion, but you have no way of knowing how
much the maker has already streched to tune in on the size. MOst of
my rings are cast a little undersize and then streched up to size.
Sizing down with the compression dies works also, but there is a
cupping on wider bands that bulges out the center in relation to the
rails that are compressed. Sizing up or down there is distortion if
the wall is of uneven thickness, so you must be very careful.

Customers for Celtic knot rings are often very particular that the
pattern not be compromised by cutting a piece out that does not match
up with the weave when put back together. The point of the symbolism
of an endless knot should not be ruined to make it fit. If you have
to cut a bit out or add a piece, cut a full interval of the pattern
so that the cords of the interlace line up. This may make you
undersize, but you can then strech up to make the difference. Not
always the easiest thing to do. Celtic rings with stones are a real
bugger to size. Since I have all the molds, it is usually easier for
me to just make a new ring than to mess around with it.

If the ring you have is one of mine (marked “(C) SAW”) give me a call
and I will assist.

Stephen Walker

How do you resize a ring that has design work all the way around it
such as a celtic knot weave, etc?

Hi Craig,

Although I’m far newer at this than many others who may answer, I’ll
gladly share with you the three things I’ve tried in similar
circumstances. The first was to simply anneal and upsize the ring on
a multi-spline ring stretcher, which was good for about 1/2-1 size,
before I ran into problems of dissimilar stretching rates among
different parts. The second was to cut the ring and size up with an
identically-dimensioned piece of sizing stock.

The third ring I’d tried this on was one which sounds a bit more like
what you’re describing, a piece that was based on a chain link
“look”. When I saw this one, I’d explained to the customer that there
was no way I could exactly replicate the link, since the link
pattern, itself, was larger than the amount of sizing needed (which
was 2.5 sizes). Instead, I offered to create either a floral design
in the same material (in this case, Sterling), or recreate a portion
of her woven wire link pattern by piercing the previously described
plate of sizing stock. She opted for the floral motif. Hope this has
been helpful!

Douglas Turet, G.J.,
Turet Design
P.O. Box 242
Avon, MA 02322-0242
(508) 586-5690

Sometimes a combination of techniques can work. By fabricating (or
casting) a piece of sizing stock identical in appearance and that
fits the rhythm and repetition of the woven pattern, you may be able
to get the ring closer to the required size, but still too small.
Then you can stretch it the rest of the way on multi splined
stretcher. Be sure to evenly anneal and to get the seams nice, neat
and sound.

Hope this helps, Andy

For someone who’s new at it, Doug at turetdesign has a pretty good
grasp of things - yes, stretch it if you can, or put in a nice, neat
piece, or size it and then duplicate the design or put another
design that suits the style. Largely, it depends on economics. If
it’s a $5,000 band, it’s worth a $100 sizing, if it’s a $20 silver
band, then you need to ask the customer how far they want to go with
it, and offer them options.