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Renaissance wax


#1

Louise, I would like to know your source, or any source, for
Renaissance wax. Also, does anyone know if it yellows over time?
Laura Hiserote

Moderator’s Note

Discussions over this topic took place few times over the last
couple of years at the Orchid forums. You can retrieve the
threads by running a keyword search.

Check out the following address to learn moRe:

http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/archive/

Best Regards
Hanuman


#2

I would like to know your source, or any source, for
Renaissance wax. Also, does anyone know if it yellows over time?

Laura, A friend, whom I enamel with, bought the wax from a co. in
NY and we share it. Address is: Dennis Blaine, 22 Morris Lane,
Great Neck NY 11024. She gave me the e-mail address over the
phone and does not have e-mail, so I can’t guarantee the address
is correct: dennis13@aol.com

This is a very good wax and is used by museums in England and I
think it has the Queen’s seal on it. I have no doubts that it
will turn yellow. Louise @lgillin1

To the Moderator: I checked the archives and found no
address.


#3

Laura: a colleague of mine recently purchased Renaissance wax
from Woodcrafters at 5020 Sharp St. Dallas, Texas (214)
634-4160. They have a catalogue and other branches around the
country. good luck.


#4

Hi,

Lee Valley Tools sells this wax as well via mail order - they
have a web site http://www.leevalley.com - not sure it is on the site
but they carry it in their catalog.

Cameron Speedie
Island Gem and Rock


#5

A few weeks back there was a discussion of preserving the finish of
sterling silver by the use of a product,Renaissance wax. I have been
unable to pull it up from the archives. I would like to know if
anyone uses it that makes native American jewelry that is oxidized by
using liver of sulphur. Applying the wax after application of the
liver of sulphur and final finishing,does the wax remove the
oxidation in the lower recesses? Would the application of the wax be
a good protector against perspiration salts and soaps,etc? I’m
thinking in particular about cuff bracelets,watch tips,and watch
bracelets. I hopes this question doesn’t sound dumb. Thanks to all,
John Barton,Images By JJ


#6

John, While I don’t make Native American jewelry, I do use liver of
sulfur to oxidize my work and I seal it with Renaissance Wax. It is
good for keeping things a little nicer in the display case but I
think that any part that experiences direct contact with the skin or
clothing will not be protected for long. Like any wax, it will eventually wear off. - Deb


#7
    How  do you apply and buff the Renaissance wax?  I have been
using dilute liver of sulfur to obtain a range of colors but find
that using the wax takes the patina back at least one color and 
severely lessens the color intensity...Am I missing something? 
Should I take the patina beyond the color of choice and put up with
the immediate loss of color intensity? 

Are you using ammonia and salt with your liver of sulfur as to act as
mordants? This may help. These mordants help retain the colors, as
well as give you more true hues. I apply the wax with just my clean
fingers, by rubbing a small amount onto my fingers first to warm the
wax, and then apply it to the metal. It doesn’t take much, and a
thinner coat is better than thick. I wait 5-10 minutes, until the wax
loses its gloss and is dry. Then I buff with an old soft tea towel.
This wax has a tendency to pick up oils from the customers handling
the pieces, dulling the finish, but a quick rub with a soft cloth
restores the luster without anything further applied to the metal.

The lacquer finish has a tendency to intensify the color however,
similar to the effect you get when wetting rough rock, but you need to
keep several things in mind when using this application: First, use
high cabinet grade lacquer. This is difficult to find, and you’ll have
to go to a specialized woodworker’s supply to get it. Personally, I
get mine from Woodworker’s Supply of Wyoming/New Mexico/North
Carolina, 1-800-645-9292. Look for a lacquer that is almost clear in
color, rather than the typical amber color you expect with lacquer.
Second, you need to thin it considerably, even though it may seem to
be thinner than most lacquers. I typically thin it at least 50/50 with
lacquer thinner, but usually a tad more. This mixture will need to
have the thinner replaced occasionally, as it’s highly votile and
evaporates quickly.

Do not make the mistake of getting just any old lacquer. This stuff
will yellow and flake. Tell your customers there is a lacquer finish
on it, so they may tell anyone who has to make repairs or alterations
in the future. It makes an awful mess if it’s burned. I’ve had this
cabinet grade lacquer on some pieces given to family members for
several years without problems with yellowing, dulling colors or
flaking, and these are pieces worn quite a bit. There has been some
wear around the edges or high spots, removing the lacquer completely,
but since they’re worn frequently, these areas stay tarnish-free from
abrasion. It doesn’t flake off from the worn areas, but has a gradual
thinning towards the edge.

The difference between the wax and the lacquer finishes is in the
appearance. The wax gives a soft, subtle satin finish, which is nice
for highly textured items like torch texture, reticulation and
sugaring, and serves to add the necessary contrast between light and
shadow. The lacquer finish is glossy and highly reflective, which is
better for items having smooth or sharply delineated surfaces, like
bright finishes, etchings and repousse’. I find I use both, wax for
one type, and lacquer for another type, according to the overall
appearance of the requirements of each individual piece.

I hope this helps. Usual disclaimers here. K.P.