I've always been told to heat the ingot mould before pouring so
that the molten metal doesn't splash (or something like that) when
it hits a cold mould. Are you saying that you are doing the
opposite? Could you explain this further?
I did say to heat the mould - absolutely before the pour. thermal
shock is common in hand pouring metals. Just lubricate the mould with
oil or beeswax and then heat, If you use a crucible with a hole ion
the back end for pouring the flame will shoot out the end if
positioned correctly heating the mould as you heat the metals. When
the lube smokes a bit it is hot enough to pour (i’m talking about a
two part mould with a handscrew on a U shaped clamp).
I also said to use a stirring rod. But not the skillet part - that is
wholly unnecessary unless you are melting a large quantity and using
a pre fab deoxidizing alloy (like other vendors selll to make
karating your scrap or casting grain more easily prepared in both
colour and uniformity from batch to batch). I would definitely not,
nor have I ever heard of in over 35 years pouring metal into a cold
skillet…double melting is unecessary if you remove the impurities
either by thoroughly mixing the alloy or stirring wioth a rod to pick
up the visible “black spots” clinging to the molten rolling ball of
Some use a hardened quartz rod - I hate them. the carbon or graphite
ones are far more effective, but you do need a pot holder or glove as
they heat up in the quick stirring required to mix and remove the
bits of junk swirling around in your crucible.
The small crucibles are available from a variety of sellers including
harbour freight- if you get them there inspect for cracks or defects
before glazing them, and they require tongs to hold them- most people
dont use the tongs correctly, you don’t use them by bringing the two
ends together, but bend them inside each other to make a secure
holder for the crucible style you like best- they are then pryed
apart to grab the crucible and work great with burno style, to any
high back crucible or the vessel like graphite ones I was talking
about (if you can’t find em contact me off list I sell them rather
Overglazing is easy to do. To correct: heat the crucible to red hot
and pour off all or as much as is possible excess into a bucket or
container of water with a submerged brick in it to give a flat
landing pad so to speak - that makes some great blue iolite or
sapphire looking practise cabs to use for teaching/learning bezel
setting!). then reapply a fresh coating of borax and a pinch of boric
acid to reglaze (i mean a small pinch ; less than an eighth tsp.
Hope this clarifies it for you.