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Ratio ring shank vs gemstone


#1

Hi,

I am making a silver ring with a 20 mm diameter Labradorite.

How do I prevent the ring from spinning on the finger due to the
large stone?

Is there a standard ratio between diameter of stone and the with of
ringshank?

Should the ring shank increase in size close to the stone?

What is the practice in this matter?

Thanks,
Eva Nedergard


#2

Eve- 20 mm is pretty big. Yes your ring will be top heavy. Gravity
can be such a b***h.

I have found the best way to keep a top heavy ring on top is to make
the bottom of the shank squarish with slightly pronounced corners.
AKA a Euro shank. After all our fingers are not round on the bottom.

As for the width of the shank. it’s all up to your aesthetics.

Just remember it’s important for the under gallery below the stone
be thicker than the thinest part of the shank. That way when the ring
is worn and smacked around and it is going to bend, it should bend or
flex at the shank and not under the stone thus preventing the stone
seat shifting. When the seat shifts the stone can loosen, pop out, or
break.

Have fun and make lots of jewelry.
Jo Haemer
timothywgreen.com


#3

Hello Eva,

You asked about how to prevent a top-heavy ring from spinning on the
finger. Do remember that as the band’s width increases, the size
needed will have to increase as well. Keeping the same width as your
20mm wide stone for the entire ring band will make it very wide.
That width alone would make the ring less likely to spin. if it was
comfortable to wear.

You could taper the shank from the width under the stone, to the
back. think signet ring style. The band design does not ‘have’ to be
circular - it could be slightly triangular, with the stone mounted
on one corner and the back of the band being the flat side opposite
the point. OR, simply make the back of the band flatter, and the
rest of the band shaped over the finger.

The rest of the Orchid community will likely have better
suggestions, and I look forward to those responses. Let us know how
you decide to design the ring.

Judy in Kansas, where the evening temps were down in the 50s!! High
for today is to only make the 70s. WOW. Great gardening opportunity
with little sweat.


#4

Hey Joe,

My company just introduced the first ever accessory that solves the
flopping and spinning of top heavy rings. Also prevents ring loss and
improves comfort.

Should be in fine jewelry stores everywhere by Christmas.

Brian