Pulse arc welding

I’ve ordered a PUK 111 pulse arc welder. Has anyone got any
experience with this machine? It looks like a great addition to my
shop but I was also considering the A.B.I. two unit system. This
looked like a more cost efficient choice because if it’s all it’s
cracked up to be I could buy 2 of these for my shop for the price of
1 of the A.B.I. units

Thanks for any imput, Mitch.

Mitch, I will be anxious to hear how you make out with this unit. I
am not quite clear on how it works. The Gesswein catalog suggests
that the electrode in the hand piece actually touches the work at
the place where you want to weld. So it almost sounds like a spot
welder but the amount of current required for a spot weld is huge
and I don’t quite see how the little tiny electrode could supply it.
So please give us a rundown on thew machine once you have it because
if it works as advertised it would do most of what a laser does for
a tenth of the money.

Jim Binnion James Binnion Metal Arts Phone (360) 756-6550 Toll Free
(877) 408 7287 Fax (360) 756-2160 http://www.mokume-gane.com
@James_Binnion Member of the Better Business Bureau

Mitch, No experience yet, but we have a PUK-111 on the way to
evaluate and demonstrate at our store. Anyone interested in
purchasing a unit should contact us as we are willing to offer an
Orchid list discount. We are set up as a dealer with them (they don’t
list new dealers until you have ordered 3 units so you will not see
us on their site yet). There is not much margin in this item, but for
a prepaid order we can save Orchid members a couple hundred dollars.

Anyone in the Colorado area that is interested in trying the PUK-111
( http://www.lampertusa.com ) and comparing it to a laser welder
should contact me and we will set up a time so that you can try them
side by side. I would love to have an experienced local Orchid member
try out these high tech tools and post a report to the list. Anyone
in the USA that is interested in purchasing a PUK-111 should also
contact us for special Orchid pricing.

Tim timg@A2ZMetalsmithSupply.com A2Z Metalsmith Supply Inc 5151 S
Federal Blvd Unit I-9 Littleton CO 80123 720 283-7200 Phone 720
385-2118 Fax www.A2ZMetalsmithSupply.com

I bought a PUK arc welder, and received it this last Thursday,
assembled it Friday morning, turned it on, and then it self tested,
went to green/go light, then the power shut off, and have never got
another blip out of it. I’ve checked all the connections,
fuses,etc…No luck there. I called the dealer-SEP Tools/ Chicago,
and the fellow there said pack it up and he would call UPS for a
calltag to have them pick it up Monday. He said if its a small
problem, he’ll remedy it himself right away, and if its a big
problem, he’ll ship me a brand new unit right away. Says he’s sold
over 600 of these and this is the very 1st unit with a problem. My
luck, huh? I’ll keep everyone posted on the actual service that I
receive.Ed -Kokomo,IN.

I recently purchased a PUK111 welder. I have a trade repair shop
doing repairs for 20 different stores. I bought this in order to
expand the types of work we were able to do as well as improve
quality and speed. So far I have been able to do several different
types of repairs; hinges next to gems that don’t take heat, posts on
earrings where heat would damage the front of the piece, platinium
hinge work on diamond links, welding a tongue into a bangle braclet,
welding several bezels onto a pendant close to gether where keeping
the others from moving was an issue and several prongs on colored
stones in yellow gold.

Most of these repairs were quite successful. However today I did a
big job where I welded several white gold prongs on a diamond ring.
I was trying to do a better job than the traditional way of using
solder and wire to make tips. The job looked good until I started
cleaning it up and found the white gold basiclly looked like a sponge
all filled with little pits and holes. Does anyone have a clue on
why this happened becaus e I don’t. I am using Argon with the PUK as
suggested by the manufacturer After smoothing and trimming up the
prongs I even went back and hit the pitted areas with a low powered
pulse to reflow the surface which looked good until I polished it on
the buffer. This machine is supposed to fill pits and fix purosity.

I’m now going to have to remove all the prongs I welded on and do
the job the old way, but I thought I’d ask you all for suggestions
first.

Thanks for any help in advance, Mitch.

I wonder if the prongs could have been retipped previously and old
solder is causing the porosity. I haven’t used a PUK 111 but I’ve
read that solder causes problems for this machine.

Robert Hood

Arc welding has me intrigued. At the risk of sounding obtuse, what
are the real differences between the $2500 German model and what I
might pick up at the welding supply or Sears for $100- 250? Or the
pawn shaop that might have a similar device for $50? Obviously the
power settings will be quite different. What else? Does anyone on
this list have any practical experience and understanding of the
principals involved?

As far as I know, My time is more important then trying to beat the
system m. If you think you could benifit from A product it is my
beleif you should by the “right” tool to do the “right” job. I
bought the PUK 111 because I have seen a 1st hand deminstration of a
laser welder and beleive it is an amazing tool which I can not
justify buying. It won’t make it’s money back in my repair shop. But
the PUK at 1/10 the price certainly will. Time is money in this
business so I wouldn’t worry about can another version of a pulse
arc welder do the job. Buy what works!