The learning curve on these machines is steep. And I made a
commitment to the technology as soon as I bought the Orion, working
with it every day.
That being said, I think that stating that this technology replaces
–or will–replace a torch is bit of an over statement.
Again, you cannot run a fillet around the base of a head, for
instance. And you certainly can’t un-weld like you can when
soldering/brazing. I often move or nudge things a bit when joining
with solder by re-flowing and moving with my pick.
The other thing is the depression or slight sag in a welded joint.
If I could get past the brittleness of a joint such as a straight (no
pad) earring post, there would most certainly be a necking-in at the
joint. That could be built up but the time and results seem
inefficient. I have balled the end of a post and used this as a
welding platform/flange but, again, not as neat nor efficient as
soldering. I have also flowed hard solder onto a post and then used
the tack mode on the Orion to melt it to a sample sheet: sort of a
home-made fusion nib. Mixed results.
The other thing that takes practice is the dissimilar conductivities
of different metals. Such as welding sterling to gold, which I did on
thin walled tube last week: welding a preset diamond/tube section to
a thin walled sterling tube.
Pulse arc technology is indeed amazing. It excels at saving castings
that are pitted. Fabricating some things with the Orion would be
impossible or incredibly inefficient with the torch. It does open
doors.
But I believe that the two technologies will exist together for some
time and that they do in fact complement each other. I bought my
Orion not to replace another technology. I bought it to extend my
abilities in the studio. Both my technical and design horizons.
I would love to see some images of what you are welding. Sounds
intriguing.
Please don’t take this wrong, but do you represent or work for
Orion/Sunstone?
We previously owned a PUK2 but switched over to the Orion when we
realized that you had to buy a completely new welder for each tech
update to the PUK.
You don’t have to buy a new PUK for every upgrade, but I will say
this, when PUK does a major upgrade, it’s a major rework, it’s not a
simple matter of updating the software, it’s totally new hardware.
You can’t upgrade hardware with a software upgrade
You’ve seen those little red aluminum saw pins that we give away at
shows? (For Knew Concepts) I do them at home on my PUK3, and they’re
nickel posts onto aluminum. Clearly, not the strongest weld on earth.
So my trick is to drill through the aluminum piece at exactly the
OD of the pin, ram the pin all the way through the piece, and then
tack the back side. All the vertical support comes from the section
of the pin that’s going through the parent sheet. All the tackweld
does is keep it from coming loose. You might try something similar
with yours.
Hello all. Since we’re talking pulse arc welders, I have a PUK 2 and
the auto darkening feature in the magnifier light has stopped
working. I have resorted to closing my eyes just before the arc not
the best way to work. Has anyone else had this problem and is there
an easy fix or do I have to send it back to Lampert? Thanks.
I wonder how many metalsmiths use the PUK for creative use. Do any of
you realize that you can melt the edge of a brooch giving it a
thicker look without the firestain? How about blowing through a
sheet to mount a pear in the smooth hole? I primarily use the PUK for
restoration, but I have also experimented with building up areas to
a quarter inch thick. Again, without firestain or melting areas
adjacent to the welds.
At some point I will post a creative piece to the PUK review page.
We are again hosting a mini-workshop in May. Two PUK owners are
bringing their machines for problem solving and also getting the
chance to play on the Orion 150s and the Orion150i. We have a
Michigan jeweler coming down to explore the Orion welders.
That sounds great. If you do this again I would be interested in
hearing ofit. Currently I use the laser, but am always interested in
learning to use new tools and/or techniques.
My daughter is just starting at the bench, so I am encouraging her
to tryas many different tools and techniques as she can.
Here’s the difference between the Orion and the PUK: With the PUK,
you set the milliseconds to 2, use the thick setting, and set the
power to 50. Done.
There are SO many variables with the Orion that yes, there is a
steep learning curve.
And I agree with Andy that it’s difficult to weld a straight pin to
an object and receive a clean soldered look. And I, too, would never
totally replace this technology with welding. Each technique has its
place. Many times it’s more efficient and you will receive a stronger
join to solder something, especially if you need the capillary action
of solder to flow under, for example, the finial on a coffeepot.
I appreciate the timing of this thread as I have been considering
one of these machines.Competition is great. I do appreciate that
posts on the subject do disclose any vested interest in the sales of
any particular machine. Since the vendors and manufacturers of this
excellent technology are following this thread I would like to
recommend an aggressive price war, with deep discounts, preferably in
the next month while I make up my mind
In my shop we use a laser and torches. The laser salesmen said we
wouldn’t need a torch anymore. I love my laser, but I probably use
the torch more now than than I did right after I started with the
laser because I now have almost 10 years of experience. That has
taught me where torch soldering will be faster, stronger or easier.
When the PUK or Orion salesman makes the same claim, I am skeptical.
I get to sell both machines, so there's no bias to push one over
the other.
I would bet there are very few craftsmen who have enough experience
with both machines to make a fair comparison. So whatever you can
tell us, Charles, is very valuable. I did check out both PUK and
Orion at MJSA in NY last month. A friend bought the Orion, so I will
have a chance for some extended trial time on it. Not sure if the
sale was closed by superior salesmanship or if it really is the
better choice. I am concerned about the learning curve and training
issues.
There are 4 craftsmen in my shop sharing one laser. We often wish
there was a second laser. A lot of what we do with the laser if very
mundane, like closing bails and jump rings. This pulse technology is
probably much better for that. But I am learning that there are
certain other jobs where the pulse machines are better than a laser,
so it will be a welcome addition to our tool chest. And although they
are expensive, it is a fraction of a laser.
The learning curve on these machines is steep. And I made a
commitment to the technology as soon as I bought the Orion,
working with it every day.
That being said, I think that stating that this technology
replaces --or will--replace a torch is bit of an over statement.
I can’t speak for the Orion, I haven’t had enough time to play with
them yet (I’ll make a point of playing with one in May), but I can
tell you that the PUK has a very shallow learning curve.
The only tutorial that I give is usually just the initial
demonstration, and I’m always happy to help customers that email or
phone me at work with a question.
A PUK can replace a torch for a lot of operations, however a torch
does heat operations like annealing, heat colouring, reticulation
etc.
One of the PUK’s selling points is that it does not create
significant heat (assuming the Orion does this too), allowing you to
repair with heat sensitive stones in place.
It’s an investment, and as such you need the work to justify buying
one. However if I were to leave my current employ, I would buy one,
because they can do some really neat things
Check your regulator and see if the safeties have blown. I had a
customer who was complaining about argon usage, turned out his
safeties had blown on the regulator.
So my trick is to drill through the aluminum piece at *exactly*
the OD of the pin, ram the pin all the way through the piece, and
then tack the back side. All the vertical support comes from the
section of the pin that's going through the parent sheet. All the
tackweld does is keep it from coming loose. You might try something
similar with yours.
That technique maintains the temper, leaves no firestain, and zero
clean-up.
In fact, for a beautifully clean attachment of a pin back on a
brooch, drill a hole directly behind the pin back catch 3/4 the
diameter of the catch base. From the front, insert the electrode and
pulse to meld the catch base to the inside of the hole. Then, fill
the hole with the appropriate alloy.
I would bet there are very few craftsmen who have enough
experience with both machines to make a fair comparison. So
whatever you can tell us, Charles, is very valuable.
Sure I’ll play with the Orion in May, too busy with the merger to to
do more than move stock from one location to another.
When I do get the opportunity, I will tell you how I go.
Regards Charles A.
P. S. Trade shows are a great time to hunt for discounts, and deals
I did not realize that a single post a two days ago would ignite
such a firestorm of good, bad, and the ugly but it clearly shows
jewelers are taking an interest in the new and wonderful technology.
As far as the new mysteria about me this is very simple. I own and
operatea Jewelrly store in Scottsbluff, NE. My family in Western
Nebraska and Eastern Wyoming own and operate 5 stores now and
previouslyl owned 9. I have been a jeweler for over 25 years now and
invented the Video Microscope called the Te Ray Vision which sold
for a couple of years, also, I appeared on QVC a few times when they
had their 50 State Tour, and received anaward winning trophy for
design from them. Now come the present, 4 to 5years ago I opened up
my new store called Pro Ice Jewelers and wanted to taste the new
technology out there called Pulse Tac and Fusion Welding so I set
out to do research on the exisiting technology and went to a
tradeshow where they had both the Orion and Puk. Being open minded
about what to buyI tested them both out and liked the quality aspect
and the delivery mechanism of the Orion better, so I when I got home
I ordered one. I don’t remember the model but it was the white one.
Initially this was a hard machine to learn and their is a learning
curve, but with persistant practice my shop got good with it and
thought outside the box. We intially use the torch but soon found we
didn’t need it anylonger and we got better and better and better.
Our business grew and our customers loved the results of this
technology. Since I was excited about what we were doing and the
resultsI would call the friendly people at Orion and tell them how
great this technology worked. We got to be friends with the Orion
Group. Well as the years rolled by Orion would have customers call
me to trouble shoot some of their questions from a ground floor
jewelers perspective. During a conversation with a 3rd generation
jeweler from San Diago, CA, he asked me if the technology would
allow him to weld prongs or metal on top of soft stones, such as
opal, etc. At that time I told him no and if I could it would make
me rich. Well the next day I started to attempt this process and
tried to weld on soft stones with just the machine, blew out every
soft stone, so I went to research heat shields and such, after a
period of timeI created a heat shield mixture which is a two part
solution, an acrylicwater based activator and the base being a
negatively ionized siica.
When mixed together it becomes a heatshield for this technology and
also the laser welder. After extensive trials we have never
experience a default or blew up a stone. We used this on pearls,
glass, platic and any other material we could think of. So I applied
for a patent and recieved it. Now I am reallly excited and shared
this with Roseco, the Puk people out of Chicago and Orion. This was
a break through jewelers could use. Well Orion invited me to go to
the Tucson Gem Show and showcase the new advances in Fusion Welding
Technology. At the show all the jewelers and lay people were totally
blown away with what the ground floor jewelers could do. We live and
breath this technology and wanted to share the whole gamet of what
we can do. For instance we finally learned how to weld pewter
together just a few weeks ago. We do 100% of our work with the
fusion welder and do not use a torch. We don’t use 1/2 our jewelers
tools any longer and no chemicals. We use laser wire and other guage
wire. We can repair almost anything from costume, vintage, classic
jewelry, to fine jewelery. My intentions when I made the intial post
was just to share about thistechnolohy for which ever
machine you prefer or use because I believe there are advantages to
both the PUK and Orion. But I personnally perfer Orion. As far as
what it can’t do with less time is a bezel weld or a sweat weld but
I guarentee that if the bezel cracked with a soft stone you could
notfix it with a torch but We can fix it with a fusion welder in
minutes.
Also, as far as our relationship with Orion are companies are
independan tbut I am proud to say we are good friends. They sell our
Sand Hills Gold Gem Guard and we buy and use their machines.
For the people who don’t understand this is called business. So
please no more false accusations and misunderstanding because I am
only trying to share in this new jewelry field of Pulse
Tac and Fusion Welding. I plan on offering training and curriculum
and certification in the future because I believe this is something
special. And if you still a doubter your just going to have to see it
to believe it.
I wonder how many metalsmiths use the PUK for creative use. Do any
of you realize that you can melt the edge of a brooch giving it a
thicker look without the firestain? How about blowing through a
sheet to mount a pear in the smooth hole? I primarily use the PUK
for restoration, but I have also experimented with building up
areas to a quarter inch thick. Again, without firestain or melting
areas adjacent to the welds.
As I wrote, I 've been using it next to ping pong balls and even
welding jumprings around the necks of tiny plastic chickens…
The learning curve on these machines is steep [snip]
As I said, I am committed to learning whatever I can on my machine.
And I bought it as a away to extend my creative possibilities rather
than replace any other technologies.
Oh Please don’t turn this into a little turf war. I was reading over
the stuff and would like to know what are the differences. I see the
advantages, but the cost is what holds me back. So reading about the
machines helps me. I have a T-Shirt from the Shakespeare Festival
that says in bold letters “SAVE ME FROM THE DRAMA” Of course I have
it’s sister shirt, Drama Queen. I also don’t mind if you are someone
with new item to sell, just let us know. I read about workshops I
might take if my schedule permits. I just don’t need more excuses to
smash metal. I do that very well without added impetus. Thanks
Charles in Australia, I look forward to your comments on the two
systems.
So my trick is to drill through the aluminum piece at *exactly*
the OD of the pin, ram the pin all the way through the piece, and
then tack the back side. All the vertical support comes from the
section of the pin that's going through the parent sheet. All the
tackweld does is keep it from coming loose. You might try something
similar with yours.
Thanks Brian. Yes, plug welding is a great solution–if you can
access or alter the back side…
I did do an amazing repair on a pair of large sterling bezel set
amber earrings. Nicely made but the sterling french wires gave up the
ghost. So I removed the remains of those wires–which were soldered
flat on the back of the earring behind the amber (closed back: a
sheet of sterling behind the amber) and then welded 20ga stainless
304 in it’s place. Filled in the space where the round wire x section
met the flat sterling with sterling wire and then did the other one.
Both earrings in the pair have nice, springy earwires with no harm to
the amber.
These were long welds, maybe 6mm of wire welded along its length to
the back of each earring. Really amazing…
