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Prong setting help

Jewelry Discussion
#1

Hey! I’m new to the ringmaking community. Decided to make an engagement ring for my soon to be fiance, as I love to make everything. Through all the research I’ve done though I can’t seem to get answers to some things. I’m making a prong setting by soldering 6 14k gold wires into a basket. (Diamond is 0.39 karrot)

  1. is there a recommended gauge size that I need to use? I’ve been practicing with 22 ga brass, is that too thin? (thinking durability)

  2. How do I make sure my prongs are hard, if I use 1/2 hard wire, then when I solder, it’ll anneal them. Does simply bending them when setting the diamond work harden them enough?

  3. Any advice on holding the prongs aligned and even as I solder them all together? (I dont want to use an under bezel)

#2

For such a small basket, it will be a challenge to hold it all together. Some use a charcoal block or honeycomb brick to pin the parts together as you start soldering it. Another method is to use three gold wires bent into a U shape and then bind them together so you can solder them.

You don’t want an under bezel - you mean an undergallery? That kinda helps hold all the stuff together unless you really just want to make a head setting and not a basket setting.

Regards,
Ron

#3

Hans Meevis has a number of tutorials that may help you, some of which are free. Here’s one along the lines of what you want to do, and it is free. Click on the blue text:

https://www.jewelry-tutorials.com/making-a-six-claw-collet.html

Here is anothe free tutorial of a different design:

https://www.jewelry-tutorials.com/making-4-prong-collet-free-tutorial.html

See all available tutorials and free videos here:

https://www.jewelry-tutorials.com/

Neil A

1 Like
#4

Thanks for the advice,

Yeah I’m wanting to do just a prong setting rather than basket setting as I’m wanting a six prong setting which will already block out some of the light. I don’t want to further crowd the diamond (as it is fairly small). I’m wanting a pretty simple look.