I’ve been where you are now trying to understand 3D printing and am still working it out, slowly.
For learning 3D printing, I have found online articles and reviews to be generally poor in regard to learning how the process works. There are almost endless youtube videos, and that’s where I had my ‘aha’ moment, finally understanding how the different type of printers work. You can search for specific machine comparisons as well, and good reviewers will point out weakness of some models.
There are other factors that matter. Resin printers require washing models and printer parts in a large quantity of toxic solvent (nearly 100% IPA - isopropyl alcohol - or more expensive brand-name solvents.) I find this a major downside. It is enough of a hassle that I think it will discourage me from using my printer as freely as I might like. There may be water-soluble resins that let you skip using IPA, but I don’t know for sure and they may not work as well. You’d have to investigate.
There is the burnout issue with resin models - the need for stronger investment and 13 hour burnouts. I’m dealing with a lengthy (and miserable) house renovation issue right now so I haven’t gotten to that stage yet but there are recent discussions on that here.
There is a different class of 3D printer that injects thin wax wire to build the model, rather than using a resin bath. I have not tried one, wish I had. I get the impression they are quite a bit slower, which for common jewelry-size pieces may or may not be an important issue to you. The output may be rougher, more pixellated than the best resin printers. The technology is advancing rapidly so you’d have to research that to know for sure. Again I have no experience with this type of printer, but if it can allow you to skip the solvent wash-up step that might make a big difference to you.
The wire waxes may - may, because I don’t know - be much more wax-like and make for easier burnout. Some models let you inject 2 (or more) different waxes, so the supports may be injected with a water-soluble ‘wax’ allowing easier support separation from the model without having to remove support nubs. Again, that is the impression I have, I don’t know for sure.
Probably the best printer in this class would be the Prusa. It is a good bit more expensive than the printer I bought, the Phrozen Sonic Mini 8K S.
If for no other reason, I suggest you look into the Prusa and compare it to a resin printer, just so you understand the differences, and see which might suit you better. There are other wire-feed brands but I think the Prusa is worth looking at to understand this type.
Slicing software is another issue to investigate and learn. There is some choice of programs for resin printers. Be sure the slicer that looks attractive to you supports the printer and resins you want to buy. I believe the Prusa software works differently. Worth looking into.
A lot of factors. Good luck!
Neil A