Hi Pat, Thanks for the ego boost… you mentioned
Now, I just wish manufacturers would get it and supply those
of us who don't have man-size hands with safe to use smaller
heat-proof gloves. The giant ones are hazardous for me to use. But
I'll never have to worry about scalpel cuts.
I don’t use gloves at all… We use a wide , bent heavy duty plaster
scraper to loosen and remove the mold from the vulcanizer. We do use
the special wax paper that comes with the contenti rubber on both
sides of the frame so that the rubber does not get stuck to any metal
on the vulcanizer. We always cut the paper slightly larger than the
frame so that when we remove the frame and put it on the table, we use
the scraper to hold down the frame , then we pull the paper off the
frame on one side, flip it with the spatula, remove the other piece of
paper, then with the scraper,pick up the frame and dunk it in water.
Heat cured silicone rubber has more tear strength if you open the
mold when it is cold…Also… easier to deal with.
Also, we use the scraper to remove the exess rubber before
vulcanizing and after the paper is removed, I use the scraper to
scrape any excess rubber that may have oozed onto the frame during
vulcanization. Pres down reasonably hard with the sharp edge bearing
down on the aluminium frame and push across the frame… you will see
that the scraper removes all the excess and leaves you with a clean
top and bottom to your frame.
Next, use the scraper to slide down the inside edge of the frame …
all the way around . this will break the seal of the rubber against
the inside of the frame and make it easy to push the rubber out. I use
a thin , flaxible scraper for this last operation.This is also done
when the frame is cold.
If you do use the paper supplied with the rubber, make sure to put
the shiny side against the rubber, or the paper will stick to the
rubber. If the shiny side sticks to the rubber and is difficult to
remove, check your vulcanizer temperature as it may be to hot.