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PnP transfer - throughly frustrated


#1

Hello Orchid Guru’s,

I’ve tried every method for adhering PnP to metal that your digest
suggested. Followed all the procedures correctly to my knowledge.

I’m throughly frustrated. Had to re-draw so many of the design’s by
hand.

Then when I etched them, the permanent marker broke down faster than
the black ink from the PnP, so the acid did not make a razor sharp
edge which ruined the design in most cases.

Any other ideas?
Why isn’t this transfer method successful?
thanks,
J


#2
i've tried every method for adhering PnP to metal that your digest
suggested. Followed all the procedures correctly to my knowledge. 

Have you used a thermometer to take the temp of the iron you’re
using to iron on the PnP?

Elaine
CreativeTextureTools.com


#3

Hi Jeanne

Can you explain what procedure you are following?

I had difficulties as well getting the PNP to adhere. My problem was
bubbles, lots of bubbles. I did everything that I had read in
regards to PnP and the procedures to follow. I finally had some
success after many tries. If you can explain what procedure you are
following and what difficulties you are having exactly, it would
help.

Carol


#4

are you using an inkjet printer?
are you sure you are using waterproof permanent ink?
was your metal stripped before adhesion?
were you using the correct side of the PnP blue?
were you using ferric etchant or nitric acid (if not some other
acid with an elctro-current)?


#5

Hi there,

I use a hot plate to heat the metal, then burnish the PNP down with
a chopstick with the end curved like a burnisher.

I wrote up a handout on doing it via hotplate a few years back. It’s
available on my website, here: http://www.ganoksin.com/gnkurl/ep803c
[pdf file]

That worked pretty well for the class.
Hope it helps,

Regards,
Brian


#6

Jeanne -

It sounds like you either are not getting the metal clean enough
first or you are not using enough heat. Metals MUST be absolutely
free of dirt and oil and have a bit of tooth such as brass brushing.
Water should sheet off smoothly. Use high heat setting, Cotton if
using an iron. I secure my iron upside down in a vise. Allow metal to
cool. You can peek under a corner to make sure you have a good bond
before removing the entire piece of film. After removing the PnP,
seal the edge all around and the back as well with packing tape
and/or nail polish. Check your etch frequently and remove the polish
with acetone when done.

Good Luck,
Linda Greene


#7

I suggest you contact Carol Webb. She is a master of PNP transfer
and etching.


#8

Carol,

I found using an electric hot plate under AND the iron above works a
heck of a lot better.

That is until I read about using a laminator and glossy paper
(silicon coated paper left over from label paper), which works even
better yet and is easier Here’s where I found the tip:

I think I spent about $ 30 on the laminator - so it wasn’t a huge
investment.

But well worth in. I’ve run metal as heavy as 16 gauge brass through
my laminator, with really good results.

Works for me,
Patty
Live Oak Studios


#9

How do we contact Carol Webb? thx, brenda


#10
How do we contact Carol Webb? thx, brenda 

Well, you could start with a google search and get this:

http://www.ganoksin.com/gnkurl/ep803l

Elaine
CreativeTextureTools.com


#11

Carol Webb is teaching this week at the Spruill Center for the Arts
in Atlanta. She told me today that her teaching schedule should be
on Facebook. If you are interested, just “friend her” and send her a
message. I took her week long workshop last year and her information
and techniques are invaluable. The time you spend learning with
Carol will make a real difference in your results. Her etchings are
clear, detailed, and wait to you learn how to fast etch all the way
through metal! She teaches you how to make your own Bi-Metals and
much more. Don’t miss an opportunity to learn from her.

Love to etch now!
Betsy Lurey


#12

Thanks to all who responded to my puzzle about image transfer with
Pnp.

Haven’t had a chance to try all suggestions yet.

J