Hi Brian,
I have been using Porcelaine 150 as one of my materials for about 3
years. There isn’t much written about its use on metal so I have
done a bit of experimentation. As with learning any new material,
you will have a ramp up time and have to do your own experiments.
Porcelaine 150 is not enamel. Use the word enamel only for glass
enamels. Porcelaine 150 is a “thermo-hardened resin-based paint”.
Since you are going to have to spend some time and money, you may
want to consider first what kind of customers you sell to. Do you
sell to the “fine jewelry” crowd or the “art jewelry” crowd? You’ve
seen comments on the list before like: “Ceramit is a second rate
substitute for enamel” or “Learn on copper and brass but when you
are ready to make real jewelry use silver or gold”. If you or your
customers think either of those statements are true, then just go
straight to learning enamels. If your customers don’t think like
that, then you can sell either enamels or paints, both enamels and
paint on one piece, or even paint on top of enamels! Even though I
make a “product”, I am an artist in head and heart. The women I make
jewelry for are intrigued by the idea of paint on jewelry and since
"thermo-hardened resin-based paint" is such an mouthful, it almost
always gives me an opening to further discuss my work.
Here’s a couple of my findings if you decide to try them. I would
start with just a couple colors. Some are opaque and others
transparent. Many of the colors will not turn out well on sterling
or copper. Like red. I use a base of white underneath to get a
bright red. Transparents won’t turn out well on sterling or copper
either. They all turn out well on fine silver. One thing I do, is
brush PMC onto sterling pieces in the area I want to paint and then
fire that. Then I’m putting the paint onto fine silver. Since you
don’t have a kiln, you may want to depletion gild. I haven’t tried
that. There is also a thinner, that adds transparency to some of the
colors.
I started with using a gas oven and you really have to experiment
with time and temp. I now use a kiln and I fire for 17 - 18 minutes
at 275 F. It says its non toxic, but I use ventilation when painting
and firing and close them off when they are drying. Let them dry for
at least 24 hours, for thicker paint or two coats, I dry for 48.
You’ll have to think about durability and how the customer will
clean the piece when you design. Most of the time, I want to use the
paint in unprotected areas. Not indented. I like to add blobs of
color to things. I’ve only had one blob pop off once - it was a very
smooth surface underneath. Make sure the metal is really clean and
if you can rough it up or have something for it to hold, its better.
I put it in my pickle, but I do it for the minimum amount of time
necessary. I just rinse it really well, I think baking soda dulls
the shine of the paint. If you rub the paint with a cleaning cloth,
it will abrade. If the paint is protected in a recessed area, then
the customer can clean the silver without abrading the paint. I’ve
also put them in my tumbler with stainless steel shot for 10 minutes
or so with no problems. (I use a non ammonia based soap). I’ve also
cleaned pieces with a paste silver cleaner and sponge successfully.
Because it is resin, you can use it in areas that have a slight
spring to it.
If you decide to try it, and have specific questions, let me know.
Laurie
