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Pearl wedge setting of pearls


#1

OK folks,

I did some searching and haven’t been able to find any tutorials or
images of the use of peg+wedge setting of pearls. I know someone
posted info on this quite awhile ago, and would love to access that
Any Orchidians know where to find it?

Also, I will be at the SNAG conference in Boston. Say, Hi, is you’re
going to be there.

Linda Kaye-Moses


#2

Hello Linda,

I have an old jeweler’s book with the technique discussed and
illustrated. As I said, the pearl does NOT come off and has to be
either cut off or ‘crushed’ to bits.

Judy in Kansas, where lots or rain and now a vigorous wind keep most
folks inside!


#3

Hi Judy,

Two questions:

  1. Which “old jeweler’s book” has the

  2. Would you be willing to scan/photocopy/whatever the pages and
    post on Orchid Forum or Ganoksin?

Thanks,
Linda Kaye-Moses


#4

Here is the reference book describing the setting of half-drilled
pearls using a split pin and wedge.

“Metalwork & Enamelling” by Herbert Maryon, copyright 1971, fifth
edition. Dover Publications, Inc., New York. Pages 84-85.

Mr. Maryon was technical attache, research lab for the British
Museum, 1945 -1963. Hope this helps.

Judy in Kansas, who has been making yummy strawberry jam with lots
of fruit. Hoping to get some apricots to dry and cherries to make
into pies!!


#5

Found info online and have re-written it for clarity:

  1. Cut a post the correct length and gauge for the hold in your
    pearl.

  2. Saw one end of the post lengthwise, about 1/3 to 1/2 way down,
    creating a kerf (slit).

  3. Into that kerf insert a small (very thin) piece of metal as a
    wedge. This piece of metal should be the same length or a little
    shorter than the kerf.

  4. Don’t push the wedge firmly into the kerf, just slide it in until
    it holds. A tiny bit of the wedge may extend beyond the end of the
    post.

  5. Place the post into the hole in the pearl and push the pearl onto
    the post.

  6. The wedge will hit the bottom of the hole in the pearl and it
    will push into the kerf, spreading it.

  7. The pearl will be firmly set using this method.

Linda Kaye-Moses


#6

Just wanted to note that “Metalwork & Enamelling” by Herbert Maryon
was first published in 1912!! The 1971 copyright is for the Dover
paperback. Herbert Maryon lived 1874-1965.


#7

No glue! Wow, what a neat trick. Permanent, but neat.

Cheers,
Becky


#8

Henry Wilson in his “Silverwork and Jewellery” (1902) makes what he
calls a ‘key peg’ for setting pearls. Instead of cutting a slit
vertically into a wire, he uses two half-round wires soldered
together at the bottom…:-)… He refers to the pearl as being
’keyed on’.

Janet in Jerusalem


#9

Speaking of glue, I made a pendent with a black pearl glue on a
pole, somehow the part next to the pearl broke, I know I can’t just
solder next to the pearl, so the question is how do I unglue the
pearl so I can solder the part on? Help please. Thanks.

Anna


#10

Hello Anna

Heat the base of the pole with the tip of a soldering IRON. It
should take afew seconds to soften the glue so you can pull the
pearl off. Very little heat will soften the glue - even the flame
from a match is enough. I like thesoldering iron because the point
of heat application is quite small and does not touch the pearl.

Judy in Kansas, where it is a lovely sunny day. Watched three pairs
of wrens build nests. Hope all will raise families.