Back when I was trying to learn how to do casting and wax modelling, I tried
a lot of different ideas, because I had a lot of time and no money. At one
point, I was trying to develop a way to make molds off of original designs,
without having all of the expensive equipment. I rigged a way to get the
molds, but then needed a way to get them injected with the was. It was at
this time that I spent EONS of time developing a way to use a MEDICAL SYRINGE
to inject the mold… I expect that my trials and tribulations would be
relevant.
I was finding that there are GREAT DIFFERENCES in how waxes set and harden.
Some breach the liquid to solid transfer in such a very small temperature
range that it is hard to get the liquid wax into the syringe before it sets.
The orifice size (i mean the size of the discharge hole) affects it, too.
something as small as a needle is almost impossible to inject through,
without it hardening up. The ideal I found was a large animal hypodermic
syringe, minus the needle. I kept a pan of melted wax on a hot plate
(careful!!! it can ignite) and filled the syringe
from the hotplate. I could fill it about halfway and discharge. the
resulting problem, then was to get rid of the wax which cooled in the tip. I
was using plastic syringes, and after probably 100 uses, the syringe tip
would buckle and break off. It works ok, though, for small numbers of
duplications and is cheaper than an injector. The best wax I found was the
green wax drops sold by the pound for injection purposes. Try this and see
what I mean, before you spend a whole lot of time on a big pastry tool.
I also spent a lot of time trying to carve waxes for casting. The best tools
I found were “dental supply” type tool sets I found at the cheap import tool
store for a couple of bucks. I really liked to use a fingernail emery board
for filing, but I found it left grit in the wax, as did sandpaper. These
discussions about sandblasting wax make me think the same thing would happen
there… I would be curious to know.