From the pictures I’m seeing, I’m not sure you can successfully finish soldering the bezels on. It looks like the bracelet has compound curves, and the bezels are flat on the bottom. Filling the gaps, and having them look good, will be challenging. In my experience 22k can be hard to solder in general, so it’s important to have close fitting joints between the bezels and the bracelet. If you put the solder inside of each bezel, and heat it by moving the torch, from both underneath and the outside wall of the bezel, you maybe able to draw the solder thru the gap, but it’s tricky.
Generally, I’d approach a bracelet like this, one of two ways. The first, is to form the bottom of each bezel to the curvature of the bracelet, so filing the bottom of the bezels to match the curve of the bracelet, which has compound curves, becomes very important.
Another approach would be to drill out the bracelet so the bezels slide through the bracelet, and solder them from underneath, or the back side. To do this soldering, I would first preheat the top of the bracelet and bezel, then from the backside (inside), melt the solder, flowing it around the bezel, moving the torch between the top and back. Remember, that the solder will always flow to where it’s the hottest. This would give you possibly, a little easier way of dealing with the curve of the bracelet, although you have to have a snug fit between the bezel and the bracelet. You don’t have to match bezel to the curve of the bracelet. One can be more precise in placement of the bezels, also. The extra metal inside the bracelet from the bezels can be cut or ground off, leaving a clean inside.
No disrespect , but the bezels seem quite thick. Using thinner bezels would allow more of the hammering of the bracelet to show, and might be a little easier to deal with in soldering them on.
Hammered 22k is beautiful! Good luck, I hope this helps.
Tjones
Goldsmith
