Partial soldering 22K Gold Bezels on 22K Hand hammered Cuff

Greetings,

I have a bit of a nightmare on my hands. Yelp! I usually work with smaller much smaller fabrications/creations. I attempted to create something bigger this time. I knew it would be a challenge… after creating the massive hand-hammered 60g cuff and taking nearly a year off/procrastinating out of fear finally got to the point of fabricating my gold bezels. Attempted to solder them in place with partial success. I have 5 partially soldered bezels in place and now I am seeking the advice of actual experts…
what is one to do to complete the soldering task?

Many thanks in advance!!!
Emel


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That looks amazing! Are you going to be soldering other things on after the bezels?

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Ah, sincerely thank you! Nothing else will be soldered afterwords just 5 Montana Sapphires will be set… by the way the gold also comes from Montana - from raw nuggets!


:slight_smile:

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From the pictures I’m seeing, I’m not sure you can successfully finish soldering the bezels on. It looks like the bracelet has compound curves, and the bezels are flat on the bottom. Filling the gaps, and having them look good, will be challenging. In my experience 22k can be hard to solder in general, so it’s important to have close fitting joints between the bezels and the bracelet. If you put the solder inside of each bezel, and heat it by moving the torch, from both underneath and the outside wall of the bezel, you maybe able to draw the solder thru the gap, but it’s tricky.

Generally, I’d approach a bracelet like this, one of two ways. The first, is to form the bottom of each bezel to the curvature of the bracelet, so filing the bottom of the bezels to match the curve of the bracelet, which has compound curves, becomes very important.

Another approach would be to drill out the bracelet so the bezels slide through the bracelet, and solder them from underneath, or the back side. To do this soldering, I would first preheat the top of the bracelet and bezel, then from the backside (inside), melt the solder, flowing it around the bezel, moving the torch between the top and back. Remember, that the solder will always flow to where it’s the hottest. This would give you possibly, a little easier way of dealing with the curve of the bracelet, although you have to have a snug fit between the bezel and the bracelet. You don’t have to match bezel to the curve of the bracelet. One can be more precise in placement of the bezels, also. The extra metal inside the bracelet from the bezels can be cut or ground off, leaving a clean inside.

No disrespect , but the bezels seem quite thick. Using thinner bezels would allow more of the hammering of the bracelet to show, and might be a little easier to deal with in soldering them on.

Hammered 22k is beautiful! Good luck, I hope this helps.

Tjones
Goldsmith

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Another option might be to fabricate collars that are formed to the curve of the bangle, and fit over the existing bezels.

Those would then be soldered to the bangle and the existing bezels.

I’m not sure if that would conflict with the design vision.

Those nuggets are fantastic!

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It looks like a pretty cool design and there are some suggestions as to what to do if you did it again. But what are you going to do now? I believe the one option is to make rings out of wire that go around the base of each bezel and conform to the curve of the bracelet and solder those in place covering up the gaps. The other option I could think of is to fabricate little pieces that fit in the gaps and then solder those in place filling in the Gap that way. Personally I would do the first option I think that’s the easiest and is going to look the cleanest. That way you would have a little frame around the base of each bezel that could be in just plain round wire or you could stamp the wire and make it decorative but if you want to keep it simple like your design then I would just make it out of a round wire and curve it to the bracelet curve.

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Actually I unsoldered the bezels… going to redo each one the correct way. But thank you all for the suggestions all very helpful !!! Thank God for this supportive community we have here :slight_smile:

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