I've been using palladium white gold from Hoover & Strong for
almost two years now and I love it. No firescale like on nickle
white! Really saves me time polishing! Wendy Newman
Just did a couple 18k rings for pearls with palladium white
bezels- the kashi grey pearl was especially nice in a white gold
bezel. Richard D. Hamilton
Fabricated 14k, 18k, and platinum Jewelry
wax carving, modelmaking, jewelry photography
I've been working with the palladium white gold alloys for about 13
years now. I don't use palladium white gold as a white gold
substitute. I use palladium white gold because of it's own unique
color (which I often refer to as pewter like in color) and its
physical properties.... . I create a number of palladium white gold
wedding rings inlaid with 18kt green, 18kt red and 24kt gold and I
only use the palladium white gold alloy for the band as it gives me
the best contrast of any of the white metals because of this
grayish, or brownish tone. I did inlay in platinum once, but the
contrast was so minimal that I only created the one.
One thing I try to emphasize to my students is that even though some
metals may appear to be similar, every metal is slightly unique both
visually and physically.
In reading about the attempts and disappointments in having
palladium white gold be a substitute for commercial white gold I can
only suggest that rather than being disappointed in the visual
differences between the two metals that you enjoy PW's uniqueness
and add the metal to your collection of choices in creating special
jewelry for your clients.
My clients love the metal.
I agree, Jim. I really don't consider pw a substitute for nickel
whites: they are their own animal. Clients often choose them for
their specific color. (I always show bead blasted or matted samples
along with polished: the color is more readable.)
But still my question hangs: what about durability?
We so often seem to choose materials for their workability, which is
great. But I see so often that the other side of the equation is not
given its due. There are two sides in my eyes to the "Jewelry
Equation": ease, efficiency and quality of manufacture/ long term
durability, stability and quality. Jewelry has a life in the studio
and a second life life after it leaves the studio.
So I have wondered how most have found pw's to compare in the long
term to nickels?
I've been a fan of palladium white gold for years. The white
appearance is an order of magnitude better than Nickel white,
especially in 18K. I like it for its workability, able to use high
temp solders for seamless use, its very clean casting, porosity
free, and just the feel of it when forging and shaping.
It's a tougher metal to work than nickel white, but isn't prone to
cracking when over worked. In general, it's a lot more forgiving
metal than nickel white. About the only negative I can come up with
is that it's harder to cast delicate pieces with it. But this is
compensated for by higher flask and melt temps and of course,
As it's a tougher metal than Nickel white, it seems to me it's also
a lot more durable. An example is how much more prepolish work is
required to get a perfect finish in the final polish. Not as much
work as with platinum but a lot more than nickel white.