This is brilliant. I like what you have done. I’ve made several bead necklaces. Long ago I figured out a way that worked for me. I made little skinny oblong pallions. I then pounded them flatter. I made a nice little nest out of of all things long ss sewing pins placed in a charcoal block. They were slightly leaning outward. Depending on the size of the bead was related to how many beads I fanned out in the nest. I fluxed the edges of both beads. After I warmed up the flux so it would be at a stage I could put the pallions on top and they would not move all over the place. at that point I put the other half of the bead on top with the flux just minimally there. The charcoal block I then put on a rotating soldering board. It was easy to walk the solder around. Your set up makes more sense to me. Just proves, you are never to old to learn new tricks. Thank You very much Alonzo.
I typically start with hard, but if there’s only one seam per bead easy is an option.
If you haven’t used paste solder before, I’d suggest putting a dab onto a clean scrap of copper and hitting it with the torch to see what will happen. People are sometimes surprised to see flames shooring out of their seam, but it’s just the binder burning off. Once the binder has burned off you’ll see how much solder was in the dab, which will give you a better idea of how much paste you’ll have to apply. It’ll be a little more than you might think.
I apply the paste just inside the seam on one side, which will be the side opposite to where the heat is first applied so I can pull the solder up and then I move the torch to the seam to pull it through the seam. It all happens pretty quickly. I don’t add any additional flux as the flux in the paste is usually sufficient. I’ve also found that if I add flux to the seam it has a tendency to bubble out and up onto the outer surface, which is only an invitation for solder to follow.
Hi all, there are some different ways of accomplishing the desired outcome. I liked the clamps, and would also do as the moderator suggested, lay (flow)some solder on one side clamp together and draw the solder out with torch, and if no other soldering operations are involved then use your lowest temp solder 1240°
There is another simple and effective approach to soldering the two halves of lentils or beads together.
Cut two long narrow strips of sheet solder the same length as the diameter of the object. Flux both edges of the halves. With the bottom half sitting upright, lay the two solder strips across the opening, to either side of the center, and place the second half on top. Heat the object until the solder melts and flows around the seam by capillary action. Typically, the weight of the top half should hold itself in place but using a solder clamp or holding it down (gently) with a third hand is also an option, as long as the clamp does not put excessive pressure on the two halves.
You might try a small sample first to ensure the approach works and to assess how much heat it takes. It is very simple to solder spheres closed with this technique.
thank you do so much for the tip!…i will try that next as i am still plagued by excess solder…and the 3/8” beads are so hard to hold onto when finishing!
A couple of these questions seem to go together. Beads and wire solder.
Back in the early 70’s the “Indian Jewelry” craze was going strong. I had a friend manufacturing beads. He strung about 2’ of them on stainless wire a small motor on the bottom and a bearing on top and “thumb screws” to secure the wire. He enclosed it in 10” ducts with cut outs and suction. Oxy/propane, big soft flame, started at the bottom with wire solder held in hemostats. As soon as the first one soldered they went from bottom to top very quickly. He had as I recall 8-10 soldering stations so you can imagine how many beads he produced every day.
The wire soldering is fairly easy to get the technique down. Personally I judge my soldering temperature by close observation of the paste flux. When it turns “glassy” it’s close to solder melting temperature. I would practice soldering on scrap.
BTW - .051” stainless steel wire fits the holes in the “honeycomb” - perforated ceramic soldering block. You can find it online. I get mine in 14” straight lengths.
…