Mark,
I am trying to find out what a good middle of the road set up
would be, AND what size tanks do people use for a couple times a
week usage.
Your subject heading suggests you’re thinking of oxy-acetylene for
this. I think that’s a mistake. In general, o/a is too hot for much
of what is done in jewelry, unless very tiny flames are used, such as
with the “Little Torch” or copies of it. And these are then also
small scale, even when you want to work larger or heat a broader
area, which is often the case with silver.
One of the first “real” torches I bought, over 40 years ago now, is
still serving me well, and has always been especially well suited to
the needs of a silversmith (or at least, a silversmith working on a
jewelry scale. Not as good for things like teapot sized objects,
though it can be done.)
That torch is the Smith “silversmith” torch. It uses only an
acetylene tank, and the torch mixes atmospheric air with the
acetylene at the base of the torch tips.
Air/Acetylene is cooler, but still plenty hot for almost anything
you might need to do (there are exceptions, which I’ll get to) in
making silver jewelry. the flame is somewhat gentler and literally
slower velocity than oxy/fuel torches. It heats a broader area for
each flame size (there is a very wide range of tips for different
size flames) This makes it ideal for silverwork, where usually you
need to heat broader areas in order to get an even soldering job.
Another torch that does the same thing, and may be somewhat cheaper
is the prestolite brand of air/acetylene torch. Roughly the same as
the silversmith torch, but the body has a bakelite handle rather than
the all brass-with-chrome/nickle plating of the silversmith. In
practice, I think the silversmith is built to a higher quality. And
the adjustment knob on the silversmith is right at the front of the
handle, for one handed adjustment during use, while the prestolite
has the valve at the back end of the handle, needing your other hand.
There may by now be other brands of air/acetylene torches, so check
around, but it’s hard to beat the Smith Silversmith torch.
Generally, these torches are designed around a B size Acetylene
tank, which is small enough to be portable, but large enough to get a
lot of use out of. Tank refills are fairly economical, cheaper than
oxygen tanks were you to get a torch that also needed oxygen.
As I said, there are limits to this torch, as with any. The smallest
tip is pretty small, but if you’re looking for very tiny pinhead
sized flames, you’d need to move to an oxy/fuel torch like the little
torch for it to be useful in very small sizes. The smallest flame
with the silversmith is about the size of the last knuckle of your
pinkie finger, or smaller. Fine for soldering fairly fine wires. But
you won’t be repairing worn prongs on someone’s diamond ring with
this, or at least, not as easily. Similarly, if you have a finished
gents silver ring with a stone set in the top which needs to be
sized, one of the best means is to immerse the ring, upside down,
just deep enough in a container of water (I use an empty cat food
can) so the stone is under water. Then you solder the sizing joint at
the bottom. But the silver top of the ring around the stone is an
enormous heat sink, so getting even the back of the shank, some
distance from the water, hot enough to flow solder can require an
intensely hot flame. The Smith Silversmith just isn’t hot enough. For
that, you might need something like a smallish oxy/acetylene torch
normally better suited to welding or melting substantial amounts of
metal for casting.
Still, you say you’re just more or less starting out. You are not
likely to exceed the ability of an air acetylene torch for perhaps
the first couple years, and then only if you branch well away from
just making silver jewelry. As I said, I still find mine useful, now
4 decades later. And acetylene also has the advantage that the tanks
are not high pressure, which makes them somewhat safer to have
indoors, if you do this. And the gas does not have the dangerous
ability to pool at ground level the way propane does if leaked. No
fuel gas tank is entirely safe from all possibilities, but these come
close. They are also commonly used in tasks like plumbing and the
like.
Hope that helps
Peter Rowe